I thought I’m going to re-write this from scratch since I have changed all the layout and added more than double the amount of buttons in the button box.
First the planning. there can be no mistake, each drill point is measured accordingly and spread out evenly.
marked with hole sizes and buttons parts was used as a layout.
Make sure all the wires are labelled correctly, I ran out of coloured wires so ended up using the multi strand Cat 5 Wire into the box.
Again it is crucial that you labelled and make a note which coloured connected to which end of the SLI-PRO, It will come in handy in a month time.
Once everything is labelled, start wiring up each end and make sure to test all connection is working correctly in the control panel.
Now after you wait a month since the rotary encoders that you ordered 1 month and 5 days ago only arrived , you want to go back to your note, to wire this puppy up, since its a rotary encoder with Push switch function as well. you will need 3 data + 2 Ground . total of 5 wires for each rotary encoders.
The person whom created this got the joy from torturing human finger and wants to SEE THEM DIE. The distance for each pin is less than 1 mm, and you need to make sure that none of the solder points got in contact of each other.
Honestly, I have finished the button box 1 month ago up to this point.
(see picture above no rotary encoders)
however because I want everything to be according as planned(..plus I have already drilled out 3 holes for them)
stubbornly waiting for 1 month until these arrived, and It took me another 2 hours, to solder 3 of these guys below and tested them out.
On my first go I finished soldering 2 that works both the rotary and push switch, however I just found out SLI-PRO configuration manager only allowed buttons 1-16 for rotary function and those button can be change to rotary by pair , ie, 1&2. -3&4, 5&6 etc , HOWEVER not 2 and 3, so if you wired button 1 to one side of the rotary, you can only use button 2 for the same rotary. I ended up using all the sequential points on both of the rotaries and left out button 31 and 30 for rotary 3, since it is only up to button 16, those 2 are useless and can’t be turned into rotary mode, so I start again.
Remember what I said about making note and reference as to which wire connected to which point in the SLI-PRO, at this point, it becomes crucial, unless you like tracing 39 wires plus 39 grounds up to the source.
in the end, I was really pushing my edge and this is how much solder point I had left , I was very lucky because at 2:25 am , no electronic shop is open, and 7/11 don’t sell these (…believe me I tried before)
after 3 rotaries are soldered , test them before even mounting them to the box, once everything works as it should,
carefully hot-glue the solder points, so that it resist tugging and squeezing inside the already very crammed box (see picture above this one to get the idea how much real estate left)
The End Result
There are literally too much sweat and blood goes in to this that I think no money can buy, it is worth it, all that bare hands wire twisting, measurements, drilling, scrapping and mounting it until all my 10 fingers are in pain for 3 straight days … I say it’s worth it.
The labelling is a bit rough on the edges, however this is the one thing I am very very happy about, this is one sim racing gear that I made from Scratch and can be proud of, one that I have not seen anyone attempted with so many rotaries and buttons cramped up in to one box. (Many have done on wheel however I want a button box with as many buttons (20 buttons, 3 toggle switches, 3 rotary encoders with push switch, 2 x 12 position rotary switch, 5 external LEDs)
I really hope these second part of the button box guide inspired you to do the same , or even better ones. please make sure you keep me posted if you do made one, I am more than happy to share and help if you need it.
Thank you for reading , it’s been a pleasure doing this.
Marcus
Here’s a little something to show what I used those rotaries for
