MMOs – OSW Open Sim Wheel Project

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2015 Everyone 🙂


MMOs OSW Opensimwheel Project


This won’t be a review or a tutorial of the project, It is only a photo log of my project from start to finished. (with a little bit of explanation)

Firstly, I would like to thank Phillip Jansen Van rensburg (a.k.a Beano) for the tutorial guide from the iRacing forum (Link to the tutorial is here) which can be followed just as I did to complete this project.

I also would like to thank:

MMOs form forum for the software + Firmware and his dedication of R&D to make this project a possibility

Berhard Berger from the

Martin Ascher for the mount and written tutorial guide link here ( and his driving videos 🙂 – Check out his website if you haven’t already at

Everyone in this project who makes this dream a reality by your contribution be it suggestions or opinion, I thank you very very much.

Additional pre-project reading material and source to download the file (Software side of things) can be found in MMOs thread in Virtualracing forum here (You’ll need a google chrome or translate for non german speaking reader) The main important thing before I start this project is to understand the wiring diagram that Beano post on the thread, after studying it carefully and understand it, I started my adventure. First of, this is the Build of Material that I use (the 4 last entry on the spreadsheets are from Jaycar electronics)

LARGER 20-30nM 130ST-M15015
130ST-M15015 1
Cables and connectors Contact Lisa Zhan via email 1
Power Supply ARGON SNT RS 25 24 1
Digital Servo Drive Argon 1
HAlf brick Heat Sink (argon & VSD-E) – Link 4
ARgon Resistor 250W 82 Ohm – Link 1
Simple Motion V2 USB Adapter 1
COUPON CODE FOR ARGON: V2dDG429, V8jf432d, V7jf432d
Alu Enclosure-Link 1
Drivelock bush×47-dl13-9694 1
adapter board for Discovery Dennis Reiner info Available after 17/12/2014 1
HUB from BEano 1
Servo Mount from Martin Ascher 1
10amp Incoming AC (230vAC) line filter – Link 1
dual pole Emergency Push button (for 3 Phase Estop) 1
120mm 12v DC Silent Fan from Jaycar 1
Power Converter from 24vac – 12v DC Jaycar 1
Jumper cable, fuse, fuse holder, cat 6s, switch, fasteners, terminal block, rainbow 15 ribbon cable,db15 head, 26pin ribbon , Ferrites choke, 3 core cable 1
Single pole Emergency Switch(for enabler) , neutrik usb, jumper lead, power switch. 1

Start of picture below. these are the first stage when parts start arriving. it doesn’t take very long for it to arrive Mainly 1-2 weeks ( it was the Christmas period after all) Picture of Mige servo arrival (bottom box servo, top box cables) the servo weighs at 13.5Kg

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The hub mount that can be coupled with the Split bushing arrived, thank you Beano (picture shows with 2 layer of RMK adapter mounted)

The Rest of the material arrived ( Box, controller, Discovery, PSU filter,etc )

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Material Preparation , (Wiring diagram – Check, wires- Check, tools -check)

Messy colourful wires is a necessity 😛

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Back and side view one last time before closing 

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Wiring completed

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Calibration Stage

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Martin’s Mount Arrived 



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Testing time
2015 is a great year for sim racers, going from normal wheel to direct drive is like going from CRT to a triple screen racing, not going to give review but After  2 weeks racing and driving with MMOs wheel full time, I am very very amazed.

This is the impression I gave to those who asks:

Star Mazda at Road Atlanta

” it’s sooo stiff and violent all the road surface and bumps are so rapid and you will feel so connected to the road like ever before”

larger NM number means weaker FFB – so that video was at 48Nm It is now 28Nm, When I click 1 more up it becomes 45Nm, meaning it’s about 60.1% of the full force iracing supply, still not 1:1 yet it is now 1:1 (100%) (until I crank it up to 28Nm) however even at 45Nm in iracing slider, during the double right hand apex hairpin, when I accidentally clip a curb too high, my elbow felt like it was about to buckle, i think to drive this at a right force, you need a correct seating position to ensure it is safe, real race car position where the steering wheel is close to your chest and high, so you utilise your back muscle to turn that wheel instead of using your hand muscle.”

another thing is with Direct Drive wheel, it is not like normal wheel where when you crank up the force you loose detail because of clipping, the more force you crank up the clearer and more powerfull the detail is. there is no clipping in F Meter, and most importantly you push that wheel to the limit = pushing the tyre to limit, when tyre start to loose traction you will feel the wheel got loosen and lighter so clearly and much earlier, you know it’s time to catch that slide baby!!
Real VS virtual (Virtual Ouch!)

 the force that I apply to the brake pedal can be felt soo clear and so precise with this wheel , the more pressure I put, the heavier the wheel is and turning is like lifting 10KG of weight , I understand now why race car driver use steering weight training”

Daytona in a Ford GT3

one thing that really surprises me I can feel road surface again- oh the joy, road surface feeling since the G27 is now back baby and it’s on steroids, it’s gives me instant road feel so fast so many times, again and again, I kept smiling lap after lap , there is subtle vibration with every bumps and grid of the road ( I was thinking this is a placebo at first) but after 2 hour, I I know Im not crazy, daytona road surface felt smoother on the bottom than on top, top is a bit rougher, with t500 the road surface can be felt too , but with this it’s like amplified and clarified so many times that I am so sure it’s a fact (a subtle vibration can be felt a lot more on top than on the bottom).

The elevation of car ‘s weight transfer during Bathurst corkscrew experience is such a wakeup call. With this wheel I can feel that a turn should be done this way not that way, the speed of turning and the angle of turning dictated so strongly that If I fight it I know I’ll crash or spin ), I am more patience with my throtle because I can feel a lot more with my steering wheel and Im waiting for it to tell me when it is ok to push and when it’s not, it is clear as night and day.

I can let the car and steering wheel and the weight of the car glide into position, do it’s job, rather than me muscling it or forcing the car to do turns that is unnatural The weight of the car and road surface can be felt so much faster and instant than what I have played with before.

In my first lap, because I wasn’t expecting such a jolt and culture shock, I was 5 -6 seconds off my normal time, on lap 5, Im 100th off my normal laptime. lap 8 I was doing a purple lap by half a second, by lap 10 I hit 1 second faster than my PB with t500.(im still very slow but this wheel has really woke me up to what a steering wheel should feel like) 

it really is something that needs to be felt to understand.”

Testing Gamestock Car Extreme Formula V12

100% Force Oulton Park in a Lotus 79

70% Force – Road Atlanta in Radical SR8


Marcus Hwang


Temporary Renovation

Hi Again everyone, I have found a better way to wire the wheel and peripherals to the dash and I wanted to post this is because I think this will send sparks of inspiration, Ideas and hopefully be useful.It has taken me over 4 months to get it to this stage (mainly because of waiting on parts). I am calling it a temporary renovation.

The Dash-
First – I was running 3 x BBI-32 controller and a Cthulhu controller simultaneously.
(one for the button box, one for the nascar dash and one for the V8SC Shifter )
not only this contribute to a lot of clutter but it has a lot of wastage in terms of inputs management.

Picture below, displaying connection of USB and Radio on the right.

and previous button box with 2 ps/2 connector at the bottom.

The Frex sequential shifter and Frex Handbrake is running via the same BBI-32 on the Button box – detachable via 2 x Ps/2 Cables( as picture above)
The V8Shifter is running a single BBI-32 just for + and –
and The dashboard also run another BBI-32.
This has started to create problems sometimes where windows won’t start if I have all three PCB plugged in to the USB hub/ directly.

Second,- The ability to change wheel and change the number of buttons/input on the go is a necessity not just a “want”.

Third,- Dashboard is as important as the rig it self. This adds immersion, centralised all useful informations (temp, fuel, etc) without pressing any button and it will save cost in the long run.

To combine these three things together, a new dashboard needs to be created in order to:
1. Attach/detach the Frex shifter and handbrake (3 inputs and 1 ground) (Read 4 pins)
2, Attach/detach the V8 sequential Shifter (2 inputs +1 ground) (read 3 pins)
3. Attach/detach the PTT radio button (1 input + 1 ground) (read 2 Pins)

This Dashboard below is made from 3mm Galvanised steel plate with Carbon fibre vinyl. -cut and measured to be as comfortable to use as possible.
2 red missile toggle safety switches is used to cut down power to the Z1 sim screen and the Gauges. Another one on far right is for a Fan in the future.

Point #2 and #3 can be combined using 1 ground (common) i.e. they can share the same ground, therefore in order to save space and save number of inputs in the Controller (BBI-32) , I decided to join the Frex Handbrake and Frex Sequential in to one 4-core cable to make 1 male plug.
Like Picture below.

The female counter parts that goes behind the dash and wired into the BBI-32 controller board

The picture below displays the middle part of the female socket of picture above and how the back of the Female socket looks like,
it is detachable from the ring/dashboard so if there is any wiring issue in the future it can be conveniently detach from the socket.

For the V8 shifter and the PTT button, a second female Binder (mrs binder) is installed on the dashboard, but instead of joining the 2 Peripherals like how the Frexes are , 2 Male binder socket was used.
One for the radio button ( connected to Pin 1 and 3/ground) and another for the V8 Shifter (connected to pin 2, 4 and 3/ ground) – all that is needed when using the Radio button is to unplug the Shifter male socket and plugging the Radio Male socket in.

For the NEW GT3 wheel : with 11 inputs, using the 4 pole binder is not possible anymore. luckily it has a bigger brother with 12 pins and 15 pins (for both Male and female) it cost a little bit more than the 4 pins but it’s totally justifiable.

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 5 54 32 pm

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 5 54 32 pm

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 5 57 10 pm

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 5 57 10 pm

The above pictures are the female and Male 12 pins connector.
This connector gets a little tricky to terminate – as the female parts have 12 pins (11 inputs and 1 ground) and to put it in perspective. the diameter of the black circle on the female bits are the same size as Australian 5c coin.
Imagine soldering 12 wire that can not touch one another inside a 5c coin.

It took 1.5 hour going through this, Wires and solder is slowly fed into each pin and re-melt.

For the male-end, a 15 core spiral cable was used so 3 of the cores remain unused (since it’s a 12 pins socket)

The video above is displaying finished result of spirals wiring.

Overall, Soldering and wiring the female end was much harder than wiring the male end even tough both looks about the same time.

To make sure there are no cross connects between each pin and the connectivity is in tact after completion, each of the cable and the pins on the male socket was tested using multi tester, heat shrunk and re tested again.

Wheel and Wheel plate arrived

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 6 09 26 pm

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 6 09 26 pm

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 6 10 01 pm

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 6 10 01 pm

meaning: Time to start the wiring …again.

This by far is the most challenging wiring I have ever came across , the Mod27C wiring of the SLI- PRO regardless of number of inputs still feels simple compare to this.
Terminating/Soldering from the button end have caused so much clutter. So It had to be terminated from the spiral ends.
Everything has to be done properly (soldered, heat shrunk and tied together) on both ends.

a Magnifying glass was required to wire them.

A quick suggestion: note the picture below. each cable was terminated but not soldered. Please leave the soldering until the very end.
Right after all the wire is inside heat shrink tube.

A lesson learnt (pic below) – many wastage of wire and heat shrink tubbing and not to mention all the time to rinse and repeat.

A Cable Gland is also used to secure the spirals from tugging way all those connection. the gland once tightened is hot glued to the carbon fibre plate.

When it’s all done.

img 7269

img 7269

img 7270

img 7270

There is still some space for flappy paddle shifter in the future.

dsc 7533

dsc 7533

dsc 7544

dsc 7544

Edit 28 Feb 2014:  Friday 5:08 AM,  looking at the picture tells me that something is not right. The rotary encoder that we  use here should be a rotary switch instead (pay attention to the three label around the rotary knob at the real car), three labels equal three positions. So I have to made the change, good thing BBI-32 have it’s own 2 point rotary switches.

All those inputs from the Dashboard – Shifters – Radio Button and the Steering wheels are connected (detachable) to one BBI32 controller board vs 3 previously.
The Benefit of running this behind the dashboard is so that future wheel/peripherals only require a set of spiral cables, plate, buttons and the male jacks instead of all that plus another controller board. plus it is just like the real thing.

The full end results.

Sim VS The GT3

I hope you benefited and enjoy this as much as I do. Lastly I would like to thank the one and only :Antonino Nizza for the Wheel plate. without him agreeing to make them, all of this would not have happened.

Good Luck and Happy sim racing 2014

Fun Little clip and previously finished wheels

Here’s a clip of it’s in live race at Bathurst

A Milestone Of A Dash

It has been a while since our last tutorial and log, I sincerely apologise for the long delay, however we have been really busy with work and our precious baby girl is growing up faster than we could ever anticipate. I try and manage to slip-in a little chunk of time I could to try and create all the little things for this hobby, so even if it’s slow, it is finally nearing completion

This projects have been going on for a while and it is still an ongoing process.

It has been a rock and roll experience, many ups and downs. Had to re done the full sheet the second time on a thicker sheet for structural support and building the mount from galvanised square tube (including learning how to weld in a fortnight), getting the welding machine, cutting,welding, sanding cleaning and painting it.

Well this video represents a milestone of what the dash have become, from ideas into cardboard template and into realisation, not complete yet but it is a milestone nonetheless.

It is still missing the Voltage gauge, water pressure and oil pressure, I figured since symprojects board have not yet fully support Spek pressure and Voltage gauges, none of them will function and pull any proper data from the sim, so blank spaces are there for future upgrade.
Parts Used:

Symprojects Pro-gauge
Leo Bodnar BBI-32

Proparts Spek Gauges
1 x 5″ Tachometer
1 x 2 1/16″ Water Temp
1 x 2 1/16″ Oil Temp
1 x 2 1/16″ Fuel Level

Inputs/ Buttons
8 x 1 way Momentary Toggle Switches
1 x Power Toggle
1 x CTS 2 way Rotary Encoder
1 x David Clark C10-15 PTT button.

1 x Neutrik USB socket

Clear Perspex 605 x 150 x 6mm

Connecting the DC talk button on the dash I had to use the “bypass female connector” of the button itself. I had to re-wire the inside a little to make it connects to the BBI-32. once done. when the button is plugged in , it acts as a talk button.

I hope you liked it


Enjoy the pictures below

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Additional connections for Frex Shift + and Frex HB+, to work with GT5 in PS3

Marcushwang's web log

****Update shifter and handbrake connection to the Cthulu PCB to be used in PS3****


Preparation bench 😉


M6 Screws for mounting, (Left Handbrake connected to “O” button on the Cthulhu, and Right (purple) connected to L1+L2 buttons for shifting up and down


Connection view with 2 PCB (BBI-32 and Cthulhu)


***********QUICK UPDATE on the button box Side: (03 March 2012)****************

I’ve changed the button box’s face all together, not enough rotaries and buttons at the moment, so with the new face plate, I’ve added 11 more buttons (coming from SLI-PRO) and soon 3 push rotary Encoders into the box. picture below shows the plan and measurements. it is always good to use the rig from the buttons to place it where the buttons will go first before proceeding to drill the holes, as you can easily see whether or not you will like the layout.

Wiring it is a big…

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