F1 Rim Guide -Part 2

Continued from PART 1

PART 2 – Electronics and Buttons

Disclaimer : Please be aware!! , That by following this guide, you are voiding your warranty of the F1 Wheel rim from Thrustmaster™ – IF you decide to do this, I will not take any responsibility for any damage this guide may cause to you, your body and/or your surroundings, you do this at your own risk., Thrustmaster will void the warranty of the rim (not the base) as soon as you open this wheel and/or made any modification to it. Kids /adults If you are under the age of 15 please close this page NOW! unless you have your parent’s supervision while doing this.- I will not take any responsibility for any damage you may caused (in case you burn down the place or have lead (chemistry code: Pb- read: plumbum) poisoning from using the solder iron and/or cut your self from having flying dremmel cutter bits fly in to your eyeballs) I am seriously thinking hard about not putting this guide online for these reasons. SO if you never use any electrical tools before, please DO NOT do this mod.

OK – Now you have all the tools (that includes the eye protection) Lets do this.
First you need to open ALL of the screws using the Philip head screwdriver – all of them. on the back

and 4 screws on the face plate .

Lay the wheel rim face down on a piece of cloth and carefully remove the back plate – there should be 3 sets of wires still attached to the main PCB – These are the paddle shifters wire and the PS/2 connectors that goes to the T500 RS base, remove them from the main PCB on the rim.(the two in red and black wires )

and one with coloured wires – It should connect to the molex socket as depict below in purple markers. -carefully remove them.

Once you remove the paddle shifters’ wire from the socket, you can easily remove the rest of the molex from the main PCB and the 4 screws holding the PCB to the rim (marked in RED)

Now this is the point of for you to decide whether or not you want to keep the stock buttons, these buttons are hot glued inside the rim and is a bit tricky to get out, either way if you manage to get them out – the waterproof buttons should fit perfecty in the place , if you decide to use the stock ones, you need to cut the white molex connector and strip the tips of those red and black wires.
I choose to to take the stock buttons off.

This is where you need the Manual here -> http://www.leobodnar.com/products/SLI-PRO/SLI-PRO%20User%20Manual.pdf
oh heck you only need these diagram for this purpose- here it is. (photos are from Leobodnar.com) I do not take any credit in creating these diagrams.

the colours represent the actual colours on the ribbon cables itself.

you need to figure out how many functions/button you are going to assign on the SLI-PRO

The Maximum you may currently assign is 16 Buttons + 6 rotary switch
-The Wheel rim have 8 buttons in total – please see numbers marked in red from 1 – 8 ;
– 2 thumb encoders that comes originally with the wheel (marked button 9-10 /LEFT and 11-12/Right)
– on the one I did I use the 2 spots on top (marked Rotary encoders #3 (button 13-14) and encoders #4 (button 15-16 )

IT has taken all maximum 16 functions/ buttons, but what about the paddle shifters you say? – well you see the PDF guide – each 12 position rotary encoders Switches also provide/take up a functions.
so if you only use 4 ROTARY SWITCHES instead of maximum 6 – you are left with another 2 unused buttons. so I use the 2 functions as  button 31 and 31 for the paddle sifters.

Once you figured these out. It’s time to create some space for the SLI-PRO

This next step of cutting and drilling require you to wear EYE-Protection, so go on, put them on now,( hmm maybe not while you reading this. but when you are actually doing the cutting)

I use my SLI-PRO as a guide to where it should go.

once you figure this out.- there are couple of ways that you can do start your preparation.
You need to take out the “Thrustmaster™” face plate after you remove the 2 screws holding it. ( at the back of my SLI-pro on the picture above)

First you draw the area around the outside of the SLI pro where you are cutting – and cut the shape later on.
or
second method is creating a stencil first using a masking tape.
1 place your masking tape (with the sticky side on the led of the SLI -Pro) gently and try to get it as straight flat as possible. (probably the easiest way is put the masking tape face up on a flat surface – and then put your SLI-PRO face down at the sticky area leaving the marks)
2 peel it off gently – do not yank it as it may damage the connection
3. you should see a mark of where the LED goes. – This is where you get your hole puncher and – start punching holes on the masking tape where those marks are.
(Sorry I did not took any picture while doing this . but I have a picture of when I did the Carbon vinyl face sticker) the hole puncher’s holes are perfect for the SLI-PRO

4. Check to see if the holes match exactly to the actually SLI-PRO.
5. If it doesn’t match, repeat this process. its should be quite easy the first time – be patience with the hole-punching.
6 .If everything matched- apply the hole-punched masking tape on face of the rim – where you want the SLI-PRO to go – and start drawing with the pencils where you need to drill.

OK-EDIT 6th Jan 2013, If only I google the word “SLI-PRO guide”Life would be much easier  just found this, photo is courtesy from Race department user Jadran Dimic. Now at least this guide may be a little easier to follow.:)

SLI-PRO Template

See above ^^ where the pencil markers are ( I forgot to take out the Thrustmaster ™ plate) – I used these as a guide for the holes.

Take out all the buttons and these rotary knobs – I should be fairly easy to do so from the inside

Once all the button and electronics are out – The next part is determining areas to be cut out and “flatten” for rotary placements.
To be continued at Part 3 here

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4 comments on “F1 Rim Guide -Part 2

  1. Tilly says:

    You should be a part of a contest for one
    of the greatest sites on the web. I most certainly will highly recommend this blog!

  2. Heinz Vanderhoydonck says:

    Marcus, nice work you did but i got a question. These wires(6) who are connect to the quick connect in the center of the wheel. What do you do with these wires and what are there purpose. Are they just beeing cut-off with your mod.

    Regards, Heinz

    • r0gu3 says:

      the 6 wires/pins I leave in there is not connected. as the pcb is out of the wheel rim. the connector to the T500 RS base can be taken off. reason to leave it in there might be for future update/revision of the rim.

  3. Heinz Vanderhoydonck says:

    Marcus, Kai told you in the mod forum this :You should have ask me about it, you wont need to cut down/away the shifter paddles Springs, there is a workaround for that.
    However: THATS NOT MY WAY TO DO THE MOD! ITS MARCUS HWANG WAY! You keep the original wheel functionality 100% with my MOD! THE ORIGINAL PCB WILL STAY IN THE WHEEL.

    I am following your way making my wheel but if it would be possible i would like to keep the pcb inside and only connect the rotary sw. and 2 encoders to the sli-pro.The buttons would stay connected with the pcb.

    Do you have any idea how it is possible to do that. I asked Kai but he wont share his work he told me, maybe he thinks i build for sale but i dont. It’s just for me, i aint got the time and desire to do that.It’s so nice that there are guy’s like you to share, apreciate it a lot m8.

    Regards, Heinz.

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