T500 RS F1 Rim Replica Guide -PART 1

PART 1 – Equipment and Materials

Disclaimer : Please be aware!! , That by following this guide, you are voiding your warranty of the F1 Wheel rim from Thrustmaster™ – IF you decide to do this, I will not take any responsibility for any damage this guide may cause to you, your body and/or your surroundings, you do this at your own risk., Thrustmaster will void the warranty of the rim (not the base) as soon as you open this wheel and/or made any modification to it. Kids /adults If you are under the age of 15 please close this page NOW! unless you have your parent’s supervision while doing this.- I will not take any responsibility for any damage you may caused (in case you burn down the place or have lead (chemistry code: Pb- read: plumbum) poisoning from using the solder iron and/or cut your self from having flying dremmel cutter bits fly in to your eyeballs) I am seriously thinking hard about not putting this guide online for these reasons. SO if you never use any electrical tools before, please DO NOT do this mod.

Brief Introduction:
Some of the method(s) used in making modifying this rim could be un-orthodox to some, rough on the edges at first even – however the end result if you do this right , is guaranteed pure satisfaction. Nothing beats the wheel that you make yourself. it is one of those things that you can keep forever and never grows tired of.

Now that the pleasantries are out of the way, Let us begin.

The Materials needed to do this are as follows:
1. 1 x Thrustmaster F150 italia replica wheel rim ( and of course a T500RS wheel if you are planning to use this wheel)

2. 1 x Sli Pro with the optional ribbon cable from www.leobodnar.com (SLI-F1 will be better if/when they are released)

plus those ribbon cables

Keep the guide open here’s link (http://www.leobodnar.com/products/SLI-PRO/SLI-PRO%20User%20Manual.pdf)

3. 4 x 12 position rotary switches from www.leobodnar.com (Get them from Bodnar as these will work with SLI as you only required to solder 3 wires per switch)

4. 2 x rotary encoders (ebay or leobodnar) either will work – only required 2 way ( I’ve always bought ones with push-in function, but in this case, I did not use/wire the “push-in”)

5. 5 x Chicken knobs /rotary knob caps

6. 1 x SLI-Pro cover (make one yourself from dark Perspex to cover the entire SLI-PRo’s face)0- I would recommend this strongly as I purchased one from some modder online and the quality is shocking, The mounting holes does not fit the Thrustmaster rim’s hole and faceplate already crack/brittle when the carbon-fibre vinyl is taken off completely. I will update this with new picture once this is fixed.

7. 8 x waterproof momentary buttons (ebay) I found out that once you remove the stock buttons, the 13mm diameter holes of the original Thrustmaster™F1 rim fits these waterproof buttons without doing any modification to it (the face of the rim). (now this bit is optional – as you may use the stock buttons that was on the rim, however , it requires you to cut the molex connector of the button in order to wire them to the SLI-PRO’s ribbon cable) – I use fresh buttons to reduce error and for contingency of needing the stock button in future) – see picture below ” stock buttons” have white connector)


Tools that you’ll need are:

1. Eye protection- Glasses- swimming goggles or a welding face mask – (It is not fun pulling hot melting hard plastic out of your eye socket)- not that it happened to me.
2. A Philip/Pozi head screwdriver
3. wire cutter and wire-strip pliers + stanley cutter
4. Multi-tester
5. Solder Iron with the 60/40 resin core (better if you have multi-voltage solder iron) in case you over cooked the resin and damage a button.
6 . Dremel and Dremel drill bit Kit with circular cutter and grinder drill-bits.

These ^^ things scares the bejesus out of me

4. a 6mm drill bit (for the External LEDs )and SLI-Pro LED
5. Hole Puncher
6. Oh ..and a vacuum cleaner – unless you are working outdoor. you are going to make a lot of mess like these.
7. Some common sense. i.e.. don’t leave your soldering iron plugged in un-attended. etc

To be continued at part 2 – here


28 comments on “T500 RS F1 Rim Replica Guide -PART 1

  1. Fuji Sartono says:

    nice, very very nice!

  2. mika says:


  3. roberto says:

    buenas marcus de antemano gracias por esos tutoriales que tienes en tu block y agradecerte por lo del led drs lo que me precupe a hora es que viendo tu video del kers mostrándolo en pantalla del sli-pro yebo un mes intentándolo yo y nada no se me muestra al apretar el botón te agradecería si pudieras decirme como lo haces gracias

    • r0gu3 says:

      Hi Roberto,
      the DRS LED in the video is very easy to configure. it is in the SLIMAX Manager III advanced settings. you can turn on the DRS LED and assign it to the LED number on the wheel .
      ie on the wheel if you put extra 5 LED (Led 7-11). make sure you know which LED is the one next to the DRS LED and assign that LED number in the SLIMAX MAnager III Software. to activate when DRS is active in F1 2012/11/

      • roberto says:

        gracia marcus por contestarme tan pronto lo del drs ya esta lo que no puedo hacer es lo del kers para que se muestre en la pantalla lo e visto en el video que tienes puesto en la pagina de slimaxmanager

      • sara says:

        very nice video. hey how do you get it to show KERS when you press it? also just for F1 2012, would you mind telling me what script you do to make the position to show in right panel?

      • r0gu3 says:

        I use xPadder- then assign Kers in F1 2012 to letter “k” in Xpadder the letter “k” is mapped to the kers button that I want.
        in the SLIMax Manager, there are control mapping and map the “Quick info” to the KERS button.
        then in the advanced option in the slimax manager, go to quick info and assign what is the quick info function is displaying so in this case , KERS.
        save the cfg file as F12012_yournamehere.cfg and set it to that when you play F1 2012.

  4. Heinz Vanderhoydonck says:

    Hi Marcus, a question.
    The words like mix, boost, rev etc…how do you make them?
    Regards, Heinz.

  5. r0gu3 says:

    you mean the sticker? they are original from the F1 t500 rim , I did not take them off.

  6. Krzysiek says:

    Great tutorial!
    I’d like to share some stuff i did for my mod:



    Hope someone finds it useful.

    • r0gu3 says:

      Hey Mate, I can’t believe this. you are one of the reason I did my mod as an inspiration. LOL , I’ve been watching that original video for a while and wander how you did that small LED ring on the side of the kers and PIT button, you use to have a different songs, and that kept playing in my head LOL

      thanks for sharing your creation man, love to see some photos if you don’t mind.
      Thank you

      • Krzysztof Chuć says:

        Hi Marcus,

        On photo you can see all imperfections…
        I could try a bit harder when covering the front with carbon imitation foil…


        stickers and plates

        I made the design and ordered the plates (including metal rings for LEDs) – they were laser cut from 1mm aluminum sheet.

        I melted the metal rings into plastic using soldering iron (first i drilled the holes).

        I also ordered stickers printed on foil and cut to shape.

        The plates and stickers were not perfect – for example the holes for rotary switches were to small and I had to enlarge them manually with the file. The designs I submitted above in PDFs are revised versions.

        I still have some leftovers (plates and stickers). I can mail 1 set to you if you’re interested.

        I bought some cool stuff (http://sugru.com) to make my own knobs in the shape closer to original, but after some trials I think I might give up…

        I only wish I had more time to drive…

      • r0gu3 says:

        Oh mate, I was wandering for a long time how or what material you have made those rings from. very very smart. wish I have the tool and skill to cut tiny rings like that . it really made a difference. are those 3mm led or 5mm led on the rings?

      • r0gu3 says:

        Awesome, yes please if you don’t mind, Id love to have a set. how much do you want the plate and stickers. for, I can paypal you the amount.

    • pascal says:

      I wanted to copy the pdf with the decal for the thrustmaster f1 wheel, but there gone, can you tell me how I can get them anyware please?

  7. Dung Truong says:

    Can you give a more detailed description of how you got KERS to show while you pressed it?
    I tried what you said but it doesn’t seem to work… also im running it on F1 2013 with SLIMAX Manager 3.3.1.

    Thanks in advance.

    • r0gu3 says:

      In SLI-Max Manager III you should see a config called F1 2012 , I choose that one and it automatically enabled KERS counting. and you assign a button ( kers button in game) to be displaying status of SLI Max manager when you press it. ( therefore the KERS in game button and SLI Max status is the same button ) then configure what is displayed during status. I choose Energy/KERS.

      There you go . when you press the Status/KERS button in game it shows the KERS and counting down.

  8. JacK says:

    Hi, mate
    I’m wondering about the wire that how they are connected correctly, I have no idea about it. Can any of you guys explain about how the wire are connected from the bottons, rotary switches, paddle shifters etc. One more question about the +5V supply for potentiometer – btw I have just a small basic background electronic.
    Thanks guys 🙂

    • r0gu3 says:

      a button almost always have 2 pins, 1 is ground and one is input. when 2 is connected(button is pressed) (closed circuit) you get an input
      so in every input PCB i.e.. BBI-32 or cthulu or any controllers. the each of the button would have 2 points, 1 is for ground and another for the input it self . therefore when you want to connect a button. one wire must be connected to ground and another to input.
      paddle shifters are actually buttons so it’s the same.
      rotary switches are also buttons , it’s just in a shape of rotary switch. and each position is an input. most of them have 1 ground for the 12 inputs since it’s working of the same ground point it is called common ground.
      what is your question about the +5v of potentiometer?
      no problem ask away/

  9. Wil says:

    I wish I could have bought this wheel. 😦 Fantastic work Markus! Just incredible. I would contract you to make another for me but I know you are busy with your own mods, if you change your mind I would love to contract you to make a wheel for my Accuforce wheel. 🙂

  10. Jack says:

    Hi Marcus, Love your awesome blog. Do you have any plans to adapt this F1 wheel to go into your OSW?

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