Hi Again everyone, I have found a better way to wire the wheel and peripherals to the dash and I wanted to post this is because I think this will send sparks of inspiration, Ideas and hopefully be useful.It has taken me over 4 months to get it to this stage (mainly because of waiting on parts). I am calling it a temporary renovation.
First – I was running 3 x BBI-32 controller and a Cthulhu controller simultaneously.
(one for the button box, one for the nascar dash and one for the V8SC Shifter )
not only this contribute to a lot of clutter but it has a lot of wastage in terms of inputs management.
Picture below, displaying connection of USB and Radio on the right.
and previous button box with 2 ps/2 connector at the bottom.
The Frex sequential shifter and Frex Handbrake is running via the same BBI-32 on the Button box – detachable via 2 x Ps/2 Cables( as picture above)
The V8Shifter is running a single BBI-32 just for + and –
and The dashboard also run another BBI-32.
This has started to create problems sometimes where windows won’t start if I have all three PCB plugged in to the USB hub/ directly.
Second,- The ability to change wheel and change the number of buttons/input on the go is a necessity not just a “want”.
Third,- Dashboard is as important as the rig it self. This adds immersion, centralised all useful informations (temp, fuel, etc) without pressing any button and it will save cost in the long run.
To combine these three things together, a new dashboard needs to be created in order to:
1. Attach/detach the Frex shifter and handbrake (3 inputs and 1 ground) (Read 4 pins)
2, Attach/detach the V8 sequential Shifter (2 inputs +1 ground) (read 3 pins)
3. Attach/detach the PTT radio button (1 input + 1 ground) (read 2 Pins)
This Dashboard below is made from 3mm Galvanised steel plate with Carbon fibre vinyl. -cut and measured to be as comfortable to use as possible.
2 red missile toggle safety switches is used to cut down power to the Z1 sim screen and the Gauges. Another one on far right is for a Fan in the future.
Point #2 and #3 can be combined using 1 ground (common) i.e. they can share the same ground, therefore in order to save space and save number of inputs in the Controller (BBI-32) , I decided to join the Frex Handbrake and Frex Sequential in to one 4-core cable to make 1 male plug.
Like Picture below.
The female counter parts that goes behind the dash and wired into the BBI-32 controller board
The picture below displays the middle part of the female socket of picture above and how the back of the Female socket looks like,
it is detachable from the ring/dashboard so if there is any wiring issue in the future it can be conveniently detach from the socket.
For the V8 shifter and the PTT button, a second female Binder (mrs binder) is installed on the dashboard, but instead of joining the 2 Peripherals like how the Frexes are , 2 Male binder socket was used.
One for the radio button ( connected to Pin 1 and 3/ground) and another for the V8 Shifter (connected to pin 2, 4 and 3/ ground) – all that is needed when using the Radio button is to unplug the Shifter male socket and plugging the Radio Male socket in.
For the NEW GT3 wheel : with 11 inputs, using the 4 pole binder is not possible anymore. luckily it has a bigger brother with 12 pins and 15 pins (for both Male and female) it cost a little bit more than the 4 pins but it’s totally justifiable.
The above pictures are the female and Male 12 pins connector.
This connector gets a little tricky to terminate – as the female parts have 12 pins (11 inputs and 1 ground) and to put it in perspective. the diameter of the black circle on the female bits are the same size as Australian 5c coin.
Imagine soldering 12 wire that can not touch one another inside a 5c coin.
It took 1.5 hour going through this, Wires and solder is slowly fed into each pin and re-melt.
For the male-end, a 15 core spiral cable was used so 3 of the cores remain unused (since it’s a 12 pins socket)
The video above is displaying finished result of spirals wiring.
Overall, Soldering and wiring the female end was much harder than wiring the male end even tough both looks about the same time.
To make sure there are no cross connects between each pin and the connectivity is in tact after completion, each of the cable and the pins on the male socket was tested using multi tester, heat shrunk and re tested again.
Wheel and Wheel plate arrived
meaning: Time to start the wiring …again.
This by far is the most challenging wiring I have ever came across , the Mod27C wiring of the SLI- PRO regardless of number of inputs still feels simple compare to this.
Terminating/Soldering from the button end have caused so much clutter. So It had to be terminated from the spiral ends.
Everything has to be done properly (soldered, heat shrunk and tied together) on both ends.
a Magnifying glass was required to wire them.
A quick suggestion: note the picture below. each cable was terminated but not soldered. Please leave the soldering until the very end.
Right after all the wire is inside heat shrink tube.
A lesson learnt (pic below) – many wastage of wire and heat shrink tubbing and not to mention all the time to rinse and repeat.
A Cable Gland is also used to secure the spirals from tugging way all those connection. the gland once tightened is hot glued to the carbon fibre plate.
When it’s all done.
There is still some space for flappy paddle shifter in the future.
Edit 28 Feb 2014: Friday 5:08 AM, looking at the picture tells me that something is not right. The rotary encoder that we use here should be a rotary switch instead (pay attention to the three label around the rotary knob at the real car), three labels equal three positions. So I have to made the change, good thing BBI-32 have it’s own 2 point rotary switches.
All those inputs from the Dashboard – Shifters – Radio Button and the Steering wheels are connected (detachable) to one BBI32 controller board vs 3 previously.
The Benefit of running this behind the dashboard is so that future wheel/peripherals only require a set of spiral cables, plate, buttons and the male jacks instead of all that plus another controller board. plus it is just like the real thing.
The full end results.
Sim VS The GT3
I hope you benefited and enjoy this as much as I do. Lastly I would like to thank the one and only :Antonino Nizza for the Wheel plate. without him agreeing to make them, all of this would not have happened.
Good Luck and Happy sim racing 2014
Fun Little clip and previously finished wheels
Here’s a clip of it’s in live race at Bathurst