Temporary Renovation

Hi Again everyone, I have found a better way to wire the wheel and peripherals to the dash and I wanted to post this is because I think this will send sparks of inspiration, Ideas and hopefully be useful.It has taken me over 4 months to get it to this stage (mainly because of waiting on parts). I am calling it a temporary renovation.

The Dash-
First – I was running 3 x BBI-32 controller and a Cthulhu controller simultaneously.
(one for the button box, one for the nascar dash and one for the V8SC Shifter )
not only this contribute to a lot of clutter but it has a lot of wastage in terms of inputs management.

Picture below, displaying connection of USB and Radio on the right.

and previous button box with 2 ps/2 connector at the bottom.

The Frex sequential shifter and Frex Handbrake is running via the same BBI-32 on the Button box – detachable via 2 x Ps/2 Cables( as picture above)
The V8Shifter is running a single BBI-32 just for + and –
and The dashboard also run another BBI-32.
This has started to create problems sometimes where windows won’t start if I have all three PCB plugged in to the USB hub/ directly.

Second,- The ability to change wheel and change the number of buttons/input on the go is a necessity not just a “want”.

Third,- Dashboard is as important as the rig it self. This adds immersion, centralised all useful informations (temp, fuel, etc) without pressing any button and it will save cost in the long run.

To combine these three things together, a new dashboard needs to be created in order to:
1. Attach/detach the Frex shifter and handbrake (3 inputs and 1 ground) (Read 4 pins)
2, Attach/detach the V8 sequential Shifter (2 inputs +1 ground) (read 3 pins)
3. Attach/detach the PTT radio button (1 input + 1 ground) (read 2 Pins)

This Dashboard below is made from 3mm Galvanised steel plate with Carbon fibre vinyl. -cut and measured to be as comfortable to use as possible.
2 red missile toggle safety switches is used to cut down power to the Z1 sim screen and the Gauges. Another one on far right is for a Fan in the future.

Point #2 and #3 can be combined using 1 ground (common) i.e. they can share the same ground, therefore in order to save space and save number of inputs in the Controller (BBI-32) , I decided to join the Frex Handbrake and Frex Sequential in to one 4-core cable to make 1 male plug.
Like Picture below.

The female counter parts that goes behind the dash and wired into the BBI-32 controller board

The picture below displays the middle part of the female socket of picture above and how the back of the Female socket looks like,
it is detachable from the ring/dashboard so if there is any wiring issue in the future it can be conveniently detach from the socket.

For the V8 shifter and the PTT button, a second female Binder (mrs binder) is installed on the dashboard, but instead of joining the 2 Peripherals like how the Frexes are , 2 Male binder socket was used.
One for the radio button ( connected to Pin 1 and 3/ground) and another for the V8 Shifter (connected to pin 2, 4 and 3/ ground) – all that is needed when using the Radio button is to unplug the Shifter male socket and plugging the Radio Male socket in.

For the NEW GT3 wheel : with 11 inputs, using the 4 pole binder is not possible anymore. luckily it has a bigger brother with 12 pins and 15 pins (for both Male and female) it cost a little bit more than the 4 pins but it’s totally justifiable.

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 5 54 32 pm

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 5 54 32 pm

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 5 57 10 pm

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 5 57 10 pm

The above pictures are the female and Male 12 pins connector.
This connector gets a little tricky to terminate – as the female parts have 12 pins (11 inputs and 1 ground) and to put it in perspective. the diameter of the black circle on the female bits are the same size as Australian 5c coin.
Imagine soldering 12 wire that can not touch one another inside a 5c coin.

It took 1.5 hour going through this, Wires and solder is slowly fed into each pin and re-melt.

For the male-end, a 15 core spiral cable was used so 3 of the cores remain unused (since it’s a 12 pins socket)

The video above is displaying finished result of spirals wiring.

Overall, Soldering and wiring the female end was much harder than wiring the male end even tough both looks about the same time.

To make sure there are no cross connects between each pin and the connectivity is in tact after completion, each of the cable and the pins on the male socket was tested using multi tester, heat shrunk and re tested again.

Wheel and Wheel plate arrived

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 6 09 26 pm

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 6 09 26 pm

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 6 10 01 pm

screen shot 2014 02 26 at 6 10 01 pm

meaning: Time to start the wiring …again.

This by far is the most challenging wiring I have ever came across , the Mod27C wiring of the SLI- PRO regardless of number of inputs still feels simple compare to this.
Terminating/Soldering from the button end have caused so much clutter. So It had to be terminated from the spiral ends.
Everything has to be done properly (soldered, heat shrunk and tied together) on both ends.

a Magnifying glass was required to wire them.

A quick suggestion: note the picture below. each cable was terminated but not soldered. Please leave the soldering until the very end.
Right after all the wire is inside heat shrink tube.

A lesson learnt (pic below) – many wastage of wire and heat shrink tubbing and not to mention all the time to rinse and repeat.

A Cable Gland is also used to secure the spirals from tugging way all those connection. the gland once tightened is hot glued to the carbon fibre plate.

When it’s all done.

img 7269

img 7269

img 7270

img 7270

There is still some space for flappy paddle shifter in the future.

dsc 7533

dsc 7533

dsc 7544

dsc 7544

Edit 28 Feb 2014:  Friday 5:08 AM,  looking at the picture tells me that something is not right. The rotary encoder that we  use here should be a rotary switch instead (pay attention to the three label around the rotary knob at the real car), three labels equal three positions. So I have to made the change, good thing BBI-32 have it’s own 2 point rotary switches.

All those inputs from the Dashboard – Shifters – Radio Button and the Steering wheels are connected (detachable) to one BBI32 controller board vs 3 previously.
The Benefit of running this behind the dashboard is so that future wheel/peripherals only require a set of spiral cables, plate, buttons and the male jacks instead of all that plus another controller board. plus it is just like the real thing.

The full end results.

Sim VS The GT3

I hope you benefited and enjoy this as much as I do. Lastly I would like to thank the one and only :Antonino Nizza for the Wheel plate. without him agreeing to make them, all of this would not have happened.

Good Luck and Happy sim racing 2014

Fun Little clip and previously finished wheels

Here’s a clip of it’s in live race at Bathurst


28 comments on “Temporary Renovation

  1. Fuji Sartono says:

    another amazing masterpiece .. i think this is the best one yet honestly !

  2. Heinz Vanderhoydonck says:

    Hi Marcus, why you dont make a quick release on your wheel. I just finished the work on mine. No more cable at the wheel and very happy with the result

    • r0gu3 says:

      Awesome, yes I know the feeling , every time that ski-pro shines when plugged in. 😀

      BTW I’ve just added a video of the QR with electronic spline for the mod 27 on the post. – should’ve add that in earlier 🙂 thanks for the reminder.

  3. Heinz Vanderhoydonck says:

    Edit: I mean a quick release including the wiring of your sli pro

    • r0gu3 says:

      Hi Heinz , yes I have roso’s electronic on my spline shaft for the SLI-PRO. no cable, but for the GT3 wheel and other Future GT Wheel the 12 or 15 pins will be a money saver. vs buying sli or PCB for each wheel – picture here http://wp.me/PLC9x-jZ

      • Josh says:

        Hi Marcus, I know you know a lot about the human racing chassis. Do you think the seat from my obutto revolution will fit w/obutto sliders if I got the player frame?

        Also I know your very good with inventing attachments have you figured out a way to have an articulating keyboard like obutto for your rig? I play fps games and do homework from my rig so I’m a little worried about losing the keyboard tray.

  4. Chan Wei Han says:

    Man this is genius. Looks like a quality piece of beast. Antonino and you are legends.:D
    Just like to ask,
    1 – which cable did you use
    2 – how many ‘sub cables’ are there, and
    3 – is there any cables like this that can accomodate 4 pushbuttons and 4 encoders?
    Cheers 😀

    • r0gu3 says:

      Thank you for the Compliment Wei Han, the 3 question you put above is actually described in the blog above., maybe i wasn’t being too clear, apologise for me being vague.
      So to answer your question I’ve put it in points below:
      1: A 15 Core spiral cable
      2. 15 core = 15 sub cables?
      3. yes you can use the same cable to accommodate 4 push buttons and 4 encoders.
      hope that helps. 🙂

  5. Fuji Sartono says:

    I’ve read the whole article again twice and finally understood the crazy genius behind the project, aptly summarised in your own words, “The Benefit of running this behind the dashboard is so that future wheel/peripherals only require a set of spiral cables, plate, buttons and the male jacks instead of all that plus another controller board. plus it is just like the real thing.”

    • r0gu3 says:

      Thank you Fuji. My sentence did get confusing at times. the effect of trying to explain 1000 things at once.
      PS: changed the rotary encoder to Rotary Switch http://youtu.be/cVrytqF1g0c – had an even closer look at the pic of the wheel . it was a switch. so now fuel mapping has moved.

  6. Will says:

    Hi, can you list your setup? Keen to know the base wheel and pedals you are using etc.

  7. Will says:

    Did you prefer T500 as opposed to clubsports?

    • r0gu3 says:

      Yes, t500 pedals felt much more ergonomic and much more natural in gt mode also it has a much shorther throw on clutch and gas. Ive really improved my time. Also the csp have problems intermittently sometimes the gas and sometimes the loadcell. Very annoyed with fanatec products.

  8. Will says:

    Thanks. I agree on fanatec, i have been burnt. I might wait until T500 confirmed use with PS4 but can I ask where is the cheapest place to get a T500 in Australia and how did you get rid of your old Fanatec product?

    • r0gu3 says:

      I sold mine on ebay as soon as I got the T500, cheapest would be via Amazon america during christmas /Black friday, but they seem to stop doing the sale last year. in AU,I am really not sure where to get them from.

  9. MasterCG says:

    Where do i buy the gt3 cup steering wheel plate. Can u post link or contact

    It will go on a real car so i wont need any electronics just the plain carbon fiber part

    That sim looks awesome great work

    I live in usa

    • r0gu3 says:

      Hi I bought it from a Guy in Sim racing (in italy) ,he custom made it himself.
      Id give you a link if he does this but he’s only doing it for fun and it’s a one off.

  10. MasterCG says:

    Where do u buy the carbon fiber plate
    I need one for my car w superturismo wheel
    Im in usa

  11. MasterCG says:

    Cool thanks
    Any idea who makes the ferrari challenge 458 steering wheel and what model it is?
    Keyword being the challenge cup style wheel

    Id actually like to make one of those setups over this one

  12. Christel says:

    Hi, I love what you have made and it inspired me to give it a shot yo try to make something myself. Which is going to be difficult I think since I have no skills, I think at least, I have never done anything like it. But ey if I get it to work it is much more fun then just ordering a dash! Do you have any measurements of your dashboard or drawing of your layout? I like the size of it in your video’s and pictures, so I can use it as a reference and can look for material that is big enough to fit gauges and stuff.

    • r0gu3 says:

      Hi Christel, I will be doing a full measurement diagram soon, just need to find time to do it. I”ve just put a new page in the gallery section under dash.

  13. swquinn770 says:

    Hi Marcus, I’m really keen to do the same with the coiled cable and 12 pin connectors. I have found unshielded 15core coiled cable which I assume is ok to use but I’m having trouble finding the correct 12 pin male and female connectors… Could you perhaps point me in the right direction or post a link to the ones you bought? Thanks!

    And great work man! This site has been loads of inspiration for me for years. Seriously well done and thanks for sharing! 🙂


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