MMOs – OSW Open Sim Wheel Project

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2015 Everyone 🙂

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MMOs OSW Opensimwheel Project

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This won’t be a review or a tutorial of the project, It is only a photo log of my project from start to finished. (with a little bit of explanation)

Firstly, I would like to thank Phillip Jansen Van rensburg (a.k.a Beano) for the tutorial guide from the iRacing forum (Link to the tutorial is here) which can be followed just as I did to complete this project.

I also would like to thank:

MMOs form virtualracing.org forum for the software + Firmware and his dedication of R&D to make this project a possibility

Berhard Berger from the Opensimwheel.net

Martin Ascher for the mount and written tutorial guide link here ( and his driving videos 🙂 – Check out his website if you haven’t already at http://www.ascher-racing.com/opensimwheel/

Everyone in this project who makes this dream a reality by your contribution be it suggestions or opinion, I thank you very very much.

Additional pre-project reading material and source to download the file (Software side of things) can be found in MMOs thread in Virtualracing forum here (You’ll need a google chrome or translate for non german speaking reader) The main important thing before I start this project is to understand the wiring diagram that Beano post on the thread, after studying it carefully and understand it, I started my adventure. First of, this is the Build of Material that I use (the 4 last entry on the spreadsheets are from Jaycar electronics)

PART AND LINKS QTY
LARGER 20-30nM 130ST-M15015
130ST-M15015 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/hot-sell-2-3kw-synchronous-motor/1097322214.html 1
Cables and connectors Contact Lisa Zhan via email 1
Power Supply ARGON SNT RS 25 24 http://www.reichelt.de/index.html?ARTICLE=137087 1
STM32F4DISCOVERY http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?KeyWords=497-11455-ND%20&WT.z_header=search_goItem%202 1
ARGON SERVO DRIVE Consists of 1
Digital Servo Drive Argon http://shop.granitedevices.com/product/30/digital-servo-drive-argon 1
HAlf brick Heat Sink (argon & VSD-E) – Link 4
ARgon Resistor 250W 82 Ohm – Link 1
Simple Motion V2 USB Adapter http://shop.granitedevices.com/product/32/simplemotion-v2-usb-adapter 1
COUPON CODE FOR ARGON: V2dDG429, V8jf432d, V7jf432d
Alu Enclosure-Link 1
Drivelock bush http://www.beltingonline.com/drivelock-13-22×47-dl13-9694 1
adapter board for Discovery Dennis Reiner info Available after 17/12/2014 1
HUB from BEano 1
Servo Mount from Martin Ascher http://www.ascher-racing.com/shop/mige-mounting-bracket/ 1
10amp Incoming AC (230vAC) line filter – Link 1
dual pole Emergency Push button (for 3 Phase Estop) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161402846989?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 1
120mm 12v DC Silent Fan from Jaycar 1
Power Converter from 24vac – 12v DC Jaycar 1
Jumper cable, fuse, fuse holder, cat 6s, switch, fasteners, terminal block, rainbow 15 ribbon cable,db15 head, 26pin ribbon , Ferrites choke, 3 core cable 1
Single pole Emergency Switch(for enabler) , neutrik usb, jumper lead, power switch. 1

Start of picture below. these are the first stage when parts start arriving. it doesn’t take very long for it to arrive Mainly 1-2 weeks ( it was the Christmas period after all) Picture of Mige servo arrival (bottom box servo, top box cables) the servo weighs at 13.5Kg

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The hub mount that can be coupled with the Split bushing arrived, thank you Beano (picture shows with 2 layer of RMK adapter mounted)

The Rest of the material arrived ( Box, controller, Discovery, PSU filter,etc )

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Material Preparation , (Wiring diagram – Check, wires- Check, tools -check)

Messy colourful wires is a necessity 😛

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Back and side view one last time before closing 

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Wiring completed

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Completed

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It’s ALIVE

Calibration Stage

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Martin’s Mount Arrived 

 

Mounted

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Testing time
2015 is a great year for sim racers, going from normal wheel to direct drive is like going from CRT to a triple screen racing, not going to give review but After  2 weeks racing and driving with MMOs wheel full time, I am very very amazed.

This is the impression I gave to those who asks:

Star Mazda at Road Atlanta

” it’s sooo stiff and violent all the road surface and bumps are so rapid and you will feel so connected to the road like ever before”

larger NM number means weaker FFB – so that video was at 48Nm It is now 28Nm, When I click 1 more up it becomes 45Nm, meaning it’s about 60.1% of the full force iracing supply, still not 1:1 yet it is now 1:1 (100%) (until I crank it up to 28Nm) however even at 45Nm in iracing slider, during the double right hand apex hairpin, when I accidentally clip a curb too high, my elbow felt like it was about to buckle, i think to drive this at a right force, you need a correct seating position to ensure it is safe, real race car position where the steering wheel is close to your chest and high, so you utilise your back muscle to turn that wheel instead of using your hand muscle.”

another thing is with Direct Drive wheel, it is not like normal wheel where when you crank up the force you loose detail because of clipping, the more force you crank up the clearer and more powerfull the detail is. there is no clipping in F Meter, and most importantly you push that wheel to the limit = pushing the tyre to limit, when tyre start to loose traction you will feel the wheel got loosen and lighter so clearly and much earlier, you know it’s time to catch that slide baby!!
Real VS virtual (Virtual Ouch!)

 the force that I apply to the brake pedal can be felt soo clear and so precise with this wheel , the more pressure I put, the heavier the wheel is and turning is like lifting 10KG of weight , I understand now why race car driver use steering weight training”

Daytona in a Ford GT3

one thing that really surprises me I can feel road surface again- oh the joy, road surface feeling since the G27 is now back baby and it’s on steroids, it’s gives me instant road feel so fast so many times, again and again, I kept smiling lap after lap , there is subtle vibration with every bumps and grid of the road ( I was thinking this is a placebo at first) but after 2 hour, I I know Im not crazy, daytona road surface felt smoother on the bottom than on top, top is a bit rougher, with t500 the road surface can be felt too , but with this it’s like amplified and clarified so many times that I am so sure it’s a fact (a subtle vibration can be felt a lot more on top than on the bottom).

The elevation of car ‘s weight transfer during Bathurst corkscrew experience is such a wakeup call. With this wheel I can feel that a turn should be done this way not that way, the speed of turning and the angle of turning dictated so strongly that If I fight it I know I’ll crash or spin ), I am more patience with my throtle because I can feel a lot more with my steering wheel and Im waiting for it to tell me when it is ok to push and when it’s not, it is clear as night and day.

I can let the car and steering wheel and the weight of the car glide into position, do it’s job, rather than me muscling it or forcing the car to do turns that is unnatural The weight of the car and road surface can be felt so much faster and instant than what I have played with before.

In my first lap, because I wasn’t expecting such a jolt and culture shock, I was 5 -6 seconds off my normal time, on lap 5, Im 100th off my normal laptime. lap 8 I was doing a purple lap by half a second, by lap 10 I hit 1 second faster than my PB with t500.(im still very slow but this wheel has really woke me up to what a steering wheel should feel like) 

it really is something that needs to be felt to understand.”

Testing Gamestock Car Extreme Formula V12

100% Force Oulton Park in a Lotus 79

70% Force – Road Atlanta in Radical SR8

Sincerely,

Marcus Hwang

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45 comments on “MMOs – OSW Open Sim Wheel Project

  1. Matt Dignam says:

    I’d like to thank Marcus for allowing me to try out his MMos based Open Sim Wheel. I’m sure by now, if you are reading this then you have no doubt heard about this amazing revolution going on in terms of direct driven wheels and the accuracy and sheer forces they can produce.

    I can say with all certainty … believe the hype! The forces this wheel can produce are nothing short of extraordinary. You would expect that in order to accomplish this feat, that certain other sacrifices would need to be made, most likely in terms of accuracy. However this thing is nothing less than an absolute monster if you want it to be, yet easily capable of producing extremely fast and highly accurate detail of the car’s connection to the road. It truly does open up a new dimension to sim racing when you are required to exert realistic physical effort to control the car around a circuit.

    I tried the wheel at forces ranging between 20NM to 28NM of torque and despite the noticeable difference in physical effort required, there was no loss of detail that the wheel would provide the driver. Every bump, curb, road surface and (if unfortunate enough) wall was produced in fast responsive clarity. At high forces the effort required would leave you sweating and walking away feeling like you wrestled a bear. You just can not get close to that in any other wheel I’ve ever tried.

    Marcus and the whole community that are keeping this Open Sim Wheel community thriving are really on to something special and I can’t wait to see what new developments arise from it in the future.

  2. Phill Berry says:

    Same here, Thanks Marcus for opening your home to us and allowing us to take your rig to the extreme. The time we spent trying all manor of different car-track-force setting with your MMos based Open Sim Wheel was nothing short of spectacular.

    I Now believe the hype! The forces this wheel can produce are absolutely awesome.
    From sheer power to the subtle stuff, everything was there and more all the way through the spectrum.
    It was absolutely amazing to drive and be able to do and feel things in the cars that just aren’t possible for you the to do in the mass produced wheels that are out the now.

    Everyone that contributes and supports this project is part of a special bunch of people, a real online community.
    Keep up the great work guys!

  3. Matthew Nethercote says:

    I echo the above sentiments, thanks Marcus for having us over 🙂

    MMOs & other similar direct drive units are definitely the future of sim wheel hardware, there is absolutely no doubt. From the second you leave the pits the responsiveness, speed and power of the unit is obvious and in comparison to the plastic toy wheels we have all been using the difference is staggering, just day and night type difference. Every one of us had the same reaction at first, massive smiles and a whole lot of what the.. 🙂

    The thing with direct drive is that the wheel is so fast and responsive you no longer have to wait to see the slide happening on screen through your vision with the wheel reacting half a second behind leaving you wondering why you were in the fence or facing the wrong way – what happens with direct drive is that you feel it through the wheel the instant the car is getting out from underneath you, you are already doing minute corrections before it gets out of hand. Previously you would have said that the sim physics were terrible or it was a really bad setup when in fact it was neither, its simply the current hardware with its belt or gear driven motors being a tad slow to react such that your inputs are always behind the car and just not being able to feel the front wheels through your sim wheel. The pounding that the car takes over kerbs and bumps, and the way the front wheels load up in corners, everything is now felt through the wheel, all in the real world level of forces you’d expect. Its definitely a work out of sorts.

    My favourite combos from the day running the wheel at high-ish Nm values were the Radical at Bathurst and the Lotus 79 at Sebring – both arm burning goodness!. The Radical at Bathurst coming over the top of the mountain I was scared to hit the walls, it certainly eliminates one thing from sim racing and that is being fearless of crashes. And the Lotus 79 at Sebring well, hitting the bumps and the kerbs is just insane, the power and torque in this wheel is just, well PLAIN ADDICTIVE! I have driven the Bodnar before on a couple of occasions but that was 18 months ago so I won’t even try and compare suffice to say the general feeling with either is more or less in the same region I guess.

    I have to say what everyone is achieving with MMOs in terms of hardware builds, the open source software side of things etc is just really cool to see, and that its only going to get more accessible and widely available from here. Massive props to you guys!

  4. Shane says:

    Great write up, and pics, very tempted to give this a shot, what is the approximate cost all up for the setup? Cheers

    • r0gu3 says:

      Hi Shane,
      Thanks, depends on the motor and route you take. but it can be done for just a little over US$1.5k, I’ve linked all parts in there, if you add them up it would be less than 2 and a little over 1.5. hope you check BEano’s tutorial on iracing – a lot of people in there are very supportive. especially when troubleshooting. i recommend reading through part1 first before attempting and go though the wiring diagram etc, once that’s done it’s actually very straight forward.:)

  5. Brodie McAleer says:

    Hi Marcus

    Got a couple of questions for you if don’t mind.

    I’m thinking of upgrading my sim rig, but cant decide if I should do pedals or wheel first. I realize the pedals will more than likely make me faster but I think I would enjoy the wheel more with the extra FFB feeling compared to the T500 Im currently running. As i would like a setup similar to yours, I would like an opinion. What would you give up first the Pedals or the Wheel ???

    If you dont mind me asking what is the ball park figure for all the parts to build the wheel including shipping without a steering wheel??

    Thanks in advance

    • r0gu3 says:

      in short – always upgrade pedal first – as a good brake pedal is the most you’ll rely on in race
      Or practice- good wheel(direct drive)’is also vital-
      but if you go wheel first, youll end up locking the brakes all the time because of the force youll receive from servo drive.

      • Brodie McAleer says:

        Thanks for the quick reply

        I have thought about it and dont have the time to DIY pedals aswell as the wheel. Do you think some Fanatec Clubsport Pedals V2, would be good enough??

      • r0gu3 says:

        Hi Brodie,
        if you are using T500. I would suggest contacting John Bodin for a set of BLC-T500 (Bodin load cell link http://www.bodin-solutions.com/BLCT500_Load_Cell_Mod/p1644578_7713861.aspx) it is a much better loadcell and it is very easy to install to your current T500 pedal. I highly recommend this mod. I went from CSP v1 to this and it felt much better, plus it doesn’t brake down every 6 months and it is very compatible with older games that support only 3 peripherals like GSC Extreme, and rfactor1 etc. (since you’re not adding another controller )it is super easy to install , contact John via that link or iRacing see if he has any spare set or is making a new batch.

  6. Mick says:

    Hello Marcus!

    Thank you for this interresting blog!

    I’m making a wheel at the moment too and have a question:

    what kind of ferrites are you using? are you using the 2 ones show in the granitedevice’s wiki?
    => for low frequency: http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?vendor=0&keywords=240-2281-ND
    => for medium frequency: http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?vendor=0&keywords=240-2306-ND
    If you are using several kind, can you explain me where to put each kind?

    Thank you!

    • r0gu3 says:

      Hello Mick,
      Exciting times building the OSW, yes those will work, I actually didn’t specifically choose the Ferrite Choke, I am just choosing the ones that will fir the cables inside, as long as you put ferrits on the encoder cables (minus the PE) , as you put the PE out side the Ferrites , and one for the power and one for the resistor, , all of them needs to be put closest to the ARgon (or IONI depending which route you choose)

      I hope that helps.
      Marcus

  7. Mick says:

    thank you for your very fast reply!

    I will use the IONI 😉

    The pics on the granitedevice’s wiki are really nice, and I alredy saw that the PE have to be out of the ferrite. But it don’t explain where to put the low frequency, neither the medium frequency one (since they are the same physically, I can’t see it using the pics).

    Well, If I find the exact answer, I will post you it 😉

  8. nicolasjayd says:

    Heya Marcus,
    Such a great project and build, I’ve been inspired to do this myself, finally have all the parts I need and I’m looking over all the wiring at the moment.

    I have a question regarding the E-Stop section, in Beano’s diagram I can see that there are three (?) wires connected to the e-stop, pins 4,1 and 5 in section J2.2 of the Argon, but I can’t workout where the ‘Enable’ switch goes at pin 7. Does that switch have a ground connection or something on it as well or is it just blank on the opposite side?

    Most of my wiring experience is in audio applications where the signals are shunted to ground when turned “off”.

    In your build, is the ‘enable’ switch of pin 7 the illuminated red one on the front of your case?

    Out of curiosity, there is a switch between the 240v IN on the case, but it looks like you purchased the fused IEC connector from jaycar or something. Does that mean you don’t have that switch and when it’s plugged into the wall, it’s constantly powered?

    Thanks for any help!
    Nic

    • r0gu3 says:

      Hi Nic,
      thanks, sorry for late reply- i am currently on leave until mid June-
      using my mobile to reply- the enable switch goes to enable port and v_out port at the smv2brk board as per this diagram http://granitedevices.com/w/index.php?title=File:Smv2brk_Usageschem.png&filetimestamp=20141030200526&
      also I wire the iec fused plug 240v input to an on/off switch before the input into the power supply. so not continuously powered on.
      hope that helps
      Marcus

      • nicolasjayd says:

        perfect! thanks heaps mate, i just stumbled across that diagram earlier today too!

        one of the things i noticed was that on the granite wiki diagram, the e stop is a 3pole throw, whereas on the beano diagram it seems to be only a 2 pole ? any word on advice on this? i have purchased a 2 pole modular switch, so its not too much trouble to order an extra breakout board for a third throw.

        Nic

  9. nicolasjayd says:

    Heya Marcus,
    Such a great project and build, I’ve been inspired to do this myself, finally have all the parts I need and I’m looking over all the wiring at the moment.

    I have a question regarding the E-Stop section, in Beano’s diagram I can see that there are three (?) wires connected to the e-stop, pins 4,1 and 5 in section J2.2 of the Argon, but I can’t workout where the ‘Enable’ switch goes at pin 7. Does that switch have a ground connection or something on it as well or is it just blank on the opposite side?

    Most of my wiring experience is in audio applications where the signals are shunted to ground when turned “off”.

    In your build, is the ‘enable’ switch of pin 7 the illuminated red one on the front of your case?

    Out of curiosity, there is a switch between the 240v IN on the case, but it looks like you purchased the fused IEC connector from jaycar or something. Does that mean you don’t have that switch and when it’s plugged into the wall, it’s constantly powered?

    Thanks for any help!
    Nic

  10. Gerald Livingston says:

    Hello Marcus,
    I just finished watching Sim Racing Garage’s review of the Bodner , Accuforce and the MSO
    wheel’s and congratulate you on your build .

    it sounds like you and Beano have put together a awesome wheel
    P.S. Is the wheel you sent Barry for sale . LOL

    Regards Gerald

    • r0gu3 says:

      Hi Gerald,
      Thanks, the OSW system that Barry have on review is not mine, I think Naid is the one that supply the wheel for Him(I am currenty away on holiday and only seen bits of that video since i only have limited internet access where I am now)
      Good luck with the purchase or build if you decide to build one, it is a fun project to built and even more fun to drive.
      regards,
      Marcus

  11. Gerald Livingston says:

    Sorry OSW Wheel

  12. Do you think that the larger motor is worth it? Small minge is what, 20 nm torque max?

    • r0gu3 says:

      I think the Larger Motor is definitely worth it, for future upgrade without buying new motor(with IONI)
      but with ARGON, the difference is not noticeable however, the large MIGE have a lot more headroom(Max 28Nm or more… i think )that the ARGON are not yet able to push to without endangering the aRGON unit.
      hope that helps
      Regards,
      Marcus

  13. Hey awesome Blog, I have build one of these wheel works awesome iracing and assetto corsa was trying to get it to work with dirt rally 3 have found fix for unsupported devices and have made custom xml file but I am unable to work out what axis the OSW uses for steering I am sure it would be x axis but it doesn’t work I have try, if you map it does it as key and we get the big deadzone. I see you have some video on youtube and was wondering if you have found fix yet 😉
    Andre

    • r0gu3 says:

      Hi Andre,
      congrats on your wheel built- with regards to DiRT Rally, i have not try to change the xml file, yes it sgould be x axis in your control panel. also have big deadzone in the middle.
      I always thought CM fixed it by now(been away for 2 months) so i havent touch DiRT just yet.

      regards,
      Marcus

    • MajorTinker says:

      Have you had any luck with the custom xml in dirt rally? I’ve tried editing devicesetup_v2.xml and lg_g27.xml so that they use the MMOS device, but it doesn’t seem to be treating it as a wheel in dirt rally – the advanced wheel settings menu isn’t available. It’s a great game, and the OSW would make it even better.

      • r0gu3 says:

        yeah, no I have heard from numerous people that changing the xml in dirt rally didn’t help, I didn’t changed mine and still playing with the deadzone unfortunately.

  14. James High says:

    Wow what a great blog covering the OSW! Sadly I don’t have the courage to build one myself, but i was thrilled to read there’s guys building kits. So I’m making the Jump. Just last night I placed an order to have a Lenze powered kit assembled for me from Reimer in Germany. Any recommendations on wheels? 70mm is mostly the size I’ll be dealing with on the hub. I’m racing open wheel in Iracing, and some GT3. Currently I have a suede 300mm Rim from Sportline, but I’ve got a feeling the OSW will warrant a purchase of a few higher end wheels such as a sparco or MOMO. the only person I know of is Sam Maxwell. Any new guys who’re building some cool DIY wheel solutions to order?
    Cheers fellas. It’s a great time to be a sim racer.

    • r0gu3 says:

      Hi congrats James, you will be in for a big surprise with OSW, for wheels and accessories, you will need holgers QR first and use your current wheel until you want to upgrade.
      I love my mod-27C the best just finished rebuilding the carbon plate -> https://marcushwang.wordpress.com/galleries/sli-pro-gallery/?preview=true&preview_id=960&preview_nonce=196a98ff33, but I also love the P260 and the superturismo. what you want right now is make sure the OSW is mounted properly first and use a proper QR (holgers is the best as it’s really bullet proof)- then you build your wheel slowly https://marcushwang.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/dsc_0268.jpg?w=640&h=425

      • James high says:

        Thanks. Ive got the q1r 70mm and 50mm shipping in. No issues mounting since il have it with the kit i ordered from dennis.
        The issue right now is that ive got a limited budget remaining for a smaller rim for open wheelers. Ive emailed many people about getting a set of paddles mounted behind a wheel but the wait time is 6-8 weeks and the prices are pretty insane. I dont need buttons as i already have a dsd box. I just need paddle shifter that can mount behind my wheel, and run off usb coil cable. And dont reaquire buying 10 different componenets and cables. Just want simple paddles lol.

      • r0gu3 says:

        I know that feeling 🙂

  15. tangduck says:

    perfect job!!!
    this is too much important post for me!so i need to reg an account to say thank you.my friend!now is time to throw my frex simwheel.made this by myself!

    • r0gu3 says:

      Cheers, it is a good project, a lot to read in forum but well worth it. good luck with the built

      • tangduck says:

        thanks a lot. i m stop simracing to work for a few years….when i saw your blog,i can not stop thinking for the sim…i need sometime to updata the new information.lucky for me is i still have some sli pro,leo 0832 board、 frexgp shift,simconmotion,scn5 and the simcommander sn code to help me rebuild new rig.so you can understand why i m so excited when i find your blog. let us keep in touch. also.if u intersted to build a motion system and use xsimcommander,i may can helpful. the sane for frexgp.because i v oder much alot of that kit set.please let me know that:)

      • r0gu3 says:

        Exciting times for sim racers

  16. denis dracup says:

    hi marcus really enjoyed your videos i am inspired to own osw like yours ..but alas i am getting a bit old and do not understand how to build it.and am computor illiterate …would you like to build for me PLEASE PLEASE regards denis

  17. Patwo says:

    Hi Marcus and all…. Great build you made… I read a lot already about the OSW wheel DIY , owning a G27 for years now. I do have a question about the game Project Cars and Assetto Corsa which I both like a lot. On my G27 it is like NO FFB in both games… you do not feel the wheels loose traction ( most important feel ).
    My mate owns an Fanatec CSW V2, just in and I have been playing at his place on Forza the newest one, with the Fanatec and it is like a HUGE difference what you feel … traction, and more … so Forza with the CSW v2 was a 500% improvement compared to the feeling of the G27. However we installed the CSW v2 on my (brought along ) PC, to test the CSW v2 in both Project Cars and Assetto Corsa…..after a few hours trying and tweaking around … we both were very disappointed for the performance of the CSW v 2 in both games….. however the CSW V2 works VERY WELL in Forza …. all info … now my real question….

    As I read a lot and watched all the Direct Drive videos around I guess… I decided to go for an OSW Wheel setup….so ever a class better than the Fanatec. What I can NOT find is .. how do the OSW Wheels respond and drive in Project Cars…. and Assetto Corsa…. As I do not have a friend around in the Netherlands with an OSW Wheel I can not test the wheel on both games…..it concerns me that maybe both games do not have very good FFB support….. as opposed to iRacing which I see SO MANY videos with OSW wheel setups… but I can not really find a good video nor a respons on how the OSW performs on both games…. before buying and building myself this amazing wheel … I would love to hear maybe from you or some readers how the OSW performs in Project Cars and or Assetto Corsa…

    hope that anyone can help me off with some info 🙂 Thanx and Regards ..

    Patwo

    • r0gu3 says:

      Hi Patwo,
      ASETTO CORSA by far have the worst FFB out of all the games (iRacing, GSC, PCars and DiRT Rally), if I could refund it I would, it is that bad lol, I could love DiRT rally even with the deadzone more than AC.
      that being said the OSW and/or Bodnar or any Direct drive wheel, is above and beyond any wheel out there (Logitech, Thrustmaster and Fanatec), reason being is as you read from comments below, it gives you the feel of the road as is, like what the sim/game developers intended to. if the sim inteded to give a lotof placebo effect on the FFB then it will feel like that (..cough…cough..AC).
      if the sim/game able to produce a much higher ‘refresh rate’ (the transfer of information from the sim’s tyre and road surface in to the FFB controller) then the sim/game will feel so much more with OSW or any direct drive wheel.
      (this is my understanding , that is why Game Stock Car Extreme and rFactor have the best FFB feel).

      To be honest, you can’t compare direct drive with non direct drive wheel, it is like comparing rumble effect on the xBox controller to Force feedback feel. with Direct drive/ OSW every feel will be amplified and not only that the force will be amplified too. With normal wheel the more you up the FFB when it reached the max the wheel can handle it will clip (meaning it it will be just force (check out when iracing F meter turns red) but detail will be loss)
      but with OSW – it will require a lot of strength and practices to turn the wheel lap after lap with full FFB Settings and on some cars it won’t even clip , meaning the more you turn on the FFB the more you feel the detail of the road surface and traction loss)

      Back to your question, re Project cars with OSW, Yes, it feels good, and Yes, I really enjoyed pCars with OSW, and yes it will feel better than any fanatec wheel out there right now, however it will not feel as refined as iRAcing nor felt as complete as GameStockCar feel because of the reasons above.
      here is my slow lap the first time i test Pcars when it becomes full version with OSW https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2Olw2AhY8A&spfreload=10
      Here is a friend came and test it https://youtu.be/ZHjoPorM2Kw (iRacing)
      Here is Gamestock Car clip https://youtu.be/2lMmvhVYBzk
      and if you haven’t seen this video it ‘s a must https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fnugyXhVsZI – it compares all the Direct drive wheel out there with different drivers etc.
      in short, if you try OSW you will build it. if you not ready to build one, don’t try one coz you will build it after 😉
      Hope the long answer above somehow help you in the right direction and can assist you in making a better decision .
      Good luck with the built Patwo.
      Sincerely,
      Marcus

      • Patwo says:

        HI Marcus,

        Quick reply 🙂 .. thanx ….. hehe … for sure Direct Drive is the way to go !!! if you want a great Simwheel .. I am totally convinced and I will build one very soon I guess, luckily I fly a lot around the world to get the components , without all the shippingcosts to keep costs low and even a Lence might be an option I guess, lets see how it goes.

        Big Thanx for the Videos and explanation, it made a couple of things clear to me, it’s just too bad I didn’t have the change to drive an Direct Drive Wheel yet, to just feel it and give it a test run

        …I just added Patch 3.0 to Project Cars and there is a new FFB menu right now …. some improvement I guess.

        Thanx once more ! … Ciao Patwo

    • Patrick Wisselo says:

      Hi Marcus,

      Things were shaping up in a good way….everything is connected and installed…however…..

      I have a small question that hopefully you or someone else can help me with…I ordered the Argon Servo Drive, but as simple motion v2 USB and smv2brk board were NOT in stock ( as the heatsinks)…I ordered the simple motion DIY usb. That works…however it did….for some reason my Granite Software cannot find the Argon Drive….I guess it has something to do with the SMV2BRK I do NOT have….as it has a Termination RESISTOR….on the side of the RJ 485 connector and a fuse on the other side…I used a wiring diagram found online…connecting the 24 volts to the RJ 485 cable with the ESTOP buttons and enable buttons….it looks like all should work fine…

      But…..what I would like to know is WHERE ( between ) which connector/pins is the RESISTOR on the SMV2BRK board…..so I can add a resistor myself. ..found a pic with the color coding…

      I anyone knows th e wiring…or can send me a picture of all the sides of the SMV2BRK board…I can figure is maybe out myself.

      Thanx

      Regards Patrick

      • r0gu3 says:

        Hi Patrick,
        the only way to get into the granite Software and adjust settings is via it’s rj45 Port through SMV2USB with CAT5e/6, unfortunately it is the only way I know how to get into the controller, as the SMV2USB board contain resistors and chipset beyond my knowledge , it is not just a simple pass through (at least not that I know of)

        I would wait for the board to become available, maybe post on iracing forum asking if any one of the system builders have spare set that they can sell you or send express).

        Regards,
        Marcus

  18. JOTAF1DF says:

    My dear Marcus, I have no words to thank you. I want to mount it too. Please: 1) what other motor is better than this argon for FFB details? 2) Which Digital Servo Drive is compatible with this other motor? 3)You recommend any other changes?Thank you so much, god bless you friend. A great hug from your friend Joradson from Brazil 🙂

  19. “Hello, Mr. Marcus.First of all, please accept my most sincere thanks.Your blog provides a lot of information helpful to me, I used Argon FWpackage1.4.2 and mige15015 as same to yours.I am looking at your blog and 【OpenSimwheel-Tutorial】, step by step to build my osw.
    Current I’m having trouble:initial configuration process was NOT successful.The wheel is NOT
    automatically centered
    【4.4 STM32 ST-LINK utility】use MMOs to set the center point of the wheel,saved。and switch off the Argon and Disco then under power then I encountered two kinds of situations:(2 of the following situations occur randomly, I can not control.)

    One is the normal start argon phasing, but blue LED lights do not flash.

    Another is to turn on the switch, the blue LED starts flashing, while argon normal startup phaseing,argon drive Operating normally, J2.2 green light.,then no matter how I turn the steering wheel, the index can not be found.blue LED lights Has been flashing.

    Tutorial said:【The Disco shows a blue LED flashing which means that it waits for you to turn the wheel 【until】 the index is found. Once you’ve done this, the LED turns off and the wheel is automatically centered and ready to go.】
    The above-mentioned [until] this refers to how long? When blue LED is flashing what should I do?
    please,Teach me.please.

    VR forum has a lot of Replies,discussion etc,but,I’m Asian, native language is not English, but also completely understand German.

    Setting Screenshot::http://user.qzone.qq.com/365639041/4
    waring Screenshot:https://www.dropbox.com/photos/album/nwbU0srb4RllKQd
    initial configuration process index can’t be found video youtube link::https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3obPuT_ZvTI

    argon setting:http://a2.qpic.cn/psb?/V12nGiVE3YkwPi/nmmTyQEOauPOU.or1WGUaI1z7GE2MNdHbpm2Q3jC3vY!/b/dIoBAAAAAAAA&bo=gAOAAgAAAAABByE!&rf=viewer_4
    MMOs setting:http://a1.qpic.cn/psb?/V12nGiVE3YkwPi/YAIwsrR2vkUfpRvTnR9edEDCO7cBIcnfr.tRVcKMNuM!/b/dG8AAAAAAAAA&bo=2wM9AQAAAAABAMM!&rf=viewer_4

    my email:mimeitakashi@163.com or mimeitakashi@gmail.com

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