MMOs – OSW Open Sim Wheel Project

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2015 Everyone 🙂


MMOs OSW Opensimwheel Project


This won’t be a review or a tutorial of the project, It is only a photo log of my project from start to finished. (with a little bit of explanation)

Firstly, I would like to thank Phillip Jansen Van rensburg (a.k.a Beano) for the tutorial guide from the iRacing forum (Link to the tutorial is here) which can be followed just as I did to complete this project.

I also would like to thank:

MMOs form forum for the software + Firmware and his dedication of R&D to make this project a possibility

Berhard Berger from the

Martin Ascher for the mount and written tutorial guide link here ( and his driving videos 🙂 – Check out his website if you haven’t already at

Everyone in this project who makes this dream a reality by your contribution be it suggestions or opinion, I thank you very very much.

Additional pre-project reading material and source to download the file (Software side of things) can be found in MMOs thread in Virtualracing forum here (You’ll need a google chrome or translate for non german speaking reader) The main important thing before I start this project is to understand the wiring diagram that Beano post on the thread, after studying it carefully and understand it, I started my adventure. First of, this is the Build of Material that I use (the 4 last entry on the spreadsheets are from Jaycar electronics)

LARGER 20-30nM 130ST-M15015
130ST-M15015 1
Cables and connectors Contact Lisa Zhan via email 1
Power Supply ARGON SNT RS 25 24 1
Digital Servo Drive Argon 1
HAlf brick Heat Sink (argon & VSD-E) – Link 4
ARgon Resistor 250W 82 Ohm – Link 1
Simple Motion V2 USB Adapter 1
COUPON CODE FOR ARGON: V2dDG429, V8jf432d, V7jf432d
Alu Enclosure-Link 1
Drivelock bush×47-dl13-9694 1
adapter board for Discovery Dennis Reiner info Available after 17/12/2014 1
HUB from BEano 1
Servo Mount from Martin Ascher 1
10amp Incoming AC (230vAC) line filter – Link 1
dual pole Emergency Push button (for 3 Phase Estop) 1
120mm 12v DC Silent Fan from Jaycar 1
Power Converter from 24vac – 12v DC Jaycar 1
Jumper cable, fuse, fuse holder, cat 6s, switch, fasteners, terminal block, rainbow 15 ribbon cable,db15 head, 26pin ribbon , Ferrites choke, 3 core cable 1
Single pole Emergency Switch(for enabler) , neutrik usb, jumper lead, power switch. 1

Start of picture below. these are the first stage when parts start arriving. it doesn’t take very long for it to arrive Mainly 1-2 weeks ( it was the Christmas period after all) Picture of Mige servo arrival (bottom box servo, top box cables) the servo weighs at 13.5Kg

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The hub mount that can be coupled with the Split bushing arrived, thank you Beano (picture shows with 2 layer of RMK adapter mounted)

The Rest of the material arrived ( Box, controller, Discovery, PSU filter,etc )

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Material Preparation , (Wiring diagram – Check, wires- Check, tools -check)

Messy colourful wires is a necessity 😛

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Back and side view one last time before closing 

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Wiring completed

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Calibration Stage

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Martin’s Mount Arrived 



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Testing time
2015 is a great year for sim racers, going from normal wheel to direct drive is like going from CRT to a triple screen racing, not going to give review but After  2 weeks racing and driving with MMOs wheel full time, I am very very amazed.

This is the impression I gave to those who asks:

Star Mazda at Road Atlanta

” it’s sooo stiff and violent all the road surface and bumps are so rapid and you will feel so connected to the road like ever before”

larger NM number means weaker FFB – so that video was at 48Nm It is now 28Nm, When I click 1 more up it becomes 45Nm, meaning it’s about 60.1% of the full force iracing supply, still not 1:1 yet it is now 1:1 (100%) (until I crank it up to 28Nm) however even at 45Nm in iracing slider, during the double right hand apex hairpin, when I accidentally clip a curb too high, my elbow felt like it was about to buckle, i think to drive this at a right force, you need a correct seating position to ensure it is safe, real race car position where the steering wheel is close to your chest and high, so you utilise your back muscle to turn that wheel instead of using your hand muscle.”

another thing is with Direct Drive wheel, it is not like normal wheel where when you crank up the force you loose detail because of clipping, the more force you crank up the clearer and more powerfull the detail is. there is no clipping in F Meter, and most importantly you push that wheel to the limit = pushing the tyre to limit, when tyre start to loose traction you will feel the wheel got loosen and lighter so clearly and much earlier, you know it’s time to catch that slide baby!!
Real VS virtual (Virtual Ouch!)

 the force that I apply to the brake pedal can be felt soo clear and so precise with this wheel , the more pressure I put, the heavier the wheel is and turning is like lifting 10KG of weight , I understand now why race car driver use steering weight training”

Daytona in a Ford GT3

one thing that really surprises me I can feel road surface again- oh the joy, road surface feeling since the G27 is now back baby and it’s on steroids, it’s gives me instant road feel so fast so many times, again and again, I kept smiling lap after lap , there is subtle vibration with every bumps and grid of the road ( I was thinking this is a placebo at first) but after 2 hour, I I know Im not crazy, daytona road surface felt smoother on the bottom than on top, top is a bit rougher, with t500 the road surface can be felt too , but with this it’s like amplified and clarified so many times that I am so sure it’s a fact (a subtle vibration can be felt a lot more on top than on the bottom).

The elevation of car ‘s weight transfer during Bathurst corkscrew experience is such a wakeup call. With this wheel I can feel that a turn should be done this way not that way, the speed of turning and the angle of turning dictated so strongly that If I fight it I know I’ll crash or spin ), I am more patience with my throtle because I can feel a lot more with my steering wheel and Im waiting for it to tell me when it is ok to push and when it’s not, it is clear as night and day.

I can let the car and steering wheel and the weight of the car glide into position, do it’s job, rather than me muscling it or forcing the car to do turns that is unnatural The weight of the car and road surface can be felt so much faster and instant than what I have played with before.

In my first lap, because I wasn’t expecting such a jolt and culture shock, I was 5 -6 seconds off my normal time, on lap 5, Im 100th off my normal laptime. lap 8 I was doing a purple lap by half a second, by lap 10 I hit 1 second faster than my PB with t500.(im still very slow but this wheel has really woke me up to what a steering wheel should feel like) 

it really is something that needs to be felt to understand.”

Testing Gamestock Car Extreme Formula V12

100% Force Oulton Park in a Lotus 79

70% Force – Road Atlanta in Radical SR8


Marcus Hwang



The Player Frame Set by HumanRacing

I am fortunate enough to not only get to test and own one of the best racing rig in the market, now I received a second one. This second one I received of HumanRacing however, is much more “open” in terms of options and accessories to choose.

Initially, when I bought my first one, everything comes in one packet, one solution, frame with adjustable wheel mount, seat, slider and gear mount.

All is fantastic, but what if you don’t need the gear mount as yet, or the seat , or the slider. What if you have your own bucket seat and seat slider and really like the design and look of GT Chassis?, Can you just get the frame set?, well now you can !!!!

Introducing the Player Frame Set

Link : here

Well I was really excited when I saw this option, as Initially I was really thinking of getting another rig for my workstations, not just for racing games but one for work , watching movies, graphic or video editing and do what we all do when we sit in front of a computer… to relax.
Good thing is, now I can 🙂 (There are couple of options that I can do to make this work I will post in a near future when the occasion is right)

Now I am given the options , to Mix and Match there are option to go both ways now.

Use optional after market seat and slider or use HumanRacing’s slider kit or non sliding mounts, gear mount (possibly for mouse tray) or without. It’s like picking candy in a store.

Not to mention at a bonus price of (US $540) less than half of it’s brother with full kit (US $1442) link:Here

All the measurements are still the same, and it is identical to the silver one I have down here, still the best in comfort ,highest quality and at minimum to none  @wobbles in steering wheel mounts, It’s still the best in the market.

Finished installed seat result. with no gear mounts and pedal below

I think it’s a fantastic solution that they have created, really gives that flexibility over which accessories to get (see examples here).

I’ve manage to capture some footage of when I was installing the seat. So I hope you have as much fun as I have in making this video and writing this.



HumanRacing GT Chassis Keyboard and Mouse tray (updated 16 Sep 2012)

Over the time I’ve been looking for racing rig that have all in compatibility, accessories ,ergonomics, looks and simplicity , but never have I met a company that responded to customer’s request, produce result so promptly and elegantly, until now.

Just a number of months ago, I was watching Shaun from SRT done the review on HumanRacing GT Chassis, and there was no accessories offered at the time, after consulting with shaun re quality of built and confirming with other owner, Im really glad I made that decision, The HumanRacing accessories that they produce not only compliments the rig but also making it more elegant from what has already a very nice rig.

To see some of the early release accessories like:

1. Fanatec clubsport pedal converter plate, head to :
2. Then the Fanatec CSR Shifter mount head to :
and in addition to the above, they have a just released a keyboard and mouse tray for the HumanRacing GT Chassis.

And since I got my hands on the accessories, I have been using it for the past 2 days, I will describe them in as details as possible for you and do a review on this.

A very simple looking elegant design.

Firstly the Keyboard and mouse tray are made from 4.5mm thick Aluminium plate that is laser cut and drilled to be mounted onto the included or additional gear mount, and they can be mounted on the left or right side of the Chassis’ seat.

The Dimensions are:

  • Keyboard tray is 20cm x 15cm
  • Mouse tray is 20cm x 18.5cm

The mouse tray is covered with a grippy mouse pad surface material and it is mounted with 2 x M6 Hex Screw on to the gear mount handle (included / optional)

The Gear mount is the same as one that comes with the rig, and it is an optional – so for those who does not use the gear mount do not have to purchase another gear mount and can save even more on cost.

( I received my review unit with it) so since I mount my gear on the left for australian driving, the Keyboard and mouse tray goes on the right side of the seat.

The keyboard tray is mounted on to the mouse tray’s centre edge by a small angled pole.

the Kit comes with :

A. Gear mount, ( that can be reverse mounted left or right) also comes with 2xM6 Hex screw (optional)

B. Mouse Tray (Aluminium Base 4.5mm thick high grade) with mousepad surface material on top and mounting point on bottom

4.5mm thick aluminium mouse pad surface.

Bottom view of mousepad that attaches to the gear mount.

C. Keyboard tray with 2 x Velcro tape for securing keyboard or your button box.
D. A small angled pole for mounting keyboard tray at an angle and it is all fully adjustable.

Mounting and assembly is very easy, all the nuts and screws comes and fairly straight forward.
what makes this design special is that the tray can be adjusted like the shifter/gear and they make your rig very elegant.

One word that my wife said after I finished installing this was “sexy”. Not only that, it is actually very strong since they are mounted on the gear mount.

The Result, is a fully adjustable mount in angle height and tilt of both the trays.

I did not use the included velcro tap as my Apple™ keyboard’s battery compartment latch on perfectly. When I get a button box, they will utilise the velcro.

Here are my opinions after using this for couple of days

  • The Mouse pad is very smooth and also provide traction for mouse movement.
  • It is very sturdy, both keyboard and mouse looks and felt “balance” .
  • The height of the keyboard is spot on, the angle adjustable to the most comfortable position. I typed a whole email on it without using the velcro for testing and the keyboard stays on ( not bouncing around) .
  • Even though they are both on the right side, It actually feels ok to type, as if your keyboard is on the right side of the desk.
  • With additional arm on both side, it did not hinder entering/exiting the rig
  • It has really made this rig an even better looking and more comfortable rig.

With this Additional mouse and Keyboard stand, making changes on the fly now made even easier while driving.
I never know mow much I needed this before , and now that I have this , It is hard to Imagine driving without this.

There are many racing rig out there that have the additional functionality and accessories but not the look, or vice-versa, this rig has both and HumanRacing have done it with style.

Thanks to everyone at HumanRacing team especially (Thanavud) for producing and designing ,(Tinnakorn) for sending it in addition to the other accessorises. I look forward to their near future design and additions.

I hope you enjoy this review.

Below is a little video slideshow displaying assembly and how adjustment method.

As always if you’d like to thank me for creating these tutorials, guides, tips and/or reviews. please click on donate button on the right column to help keep this running, Thank you.


****** September 16 2012 Update video*******

Strength and stability demonstration on the GT Chassis shifter mount .

New Clubsport converter kit for HumanRacing GT Chassis overview

New Designed Fanatec Clubsport Pedal converter plate for HumanRacing GT Chassis.

The Kit consist of
A. 1 Top plate (Smaller)
B. Bottom plate (Larger)
C. 4 x M8 Hex Bolts and Nuts
D. 4 x M6 Hex bolts

I have just recently received a new converter plate for my GT Chassis from humanRacing, at first I honestly wasn’t expecting much from a converter plate for the CSP, some of you may even think , “what’s the big deal about this converter plate”, well today im going to describe to you some of the benefits and difference as to why this is so much better comparing to the first version below:

Predecessor Clubsport converter Kit (Square design with 4 holes on each plate catering the need of mounting Clubsport pedal to the Gt Chassis

A. As you can see the first version is rectangular in shape and all 4 corners sticking out from the chassis base, the new design have rounded less protrusion, but also what you can’t tell from the picture is the weight.

B. The new design is about a third of it’s predecessor’s weight, with the hollow centre( see pic below) it reduces so much weight and with it’s contour design it maximises area of usage ( clubsport pedal footprint) yet minimises foot print of the actual converter plate and most importantly maintaining the same strength with only a third of the weight.

Top plate (New and improved design)

C. It’s made from 4.5mm high-grade brushed aluminium plate that is laser cut and drilled to precision.

I measure the thickness of the plate and this is what I came up with, 4.77mm thick.

Bottom plate

Contour design making this a much natural looking accesories.

D. Not only that it looks so much cooler than it’s predecessor, The hole of the plate fits perfectly with both the M8s and M6s without the need of the Nuts securing it, nevertheless the whole kit comes complete with the nuts and washers, this makes the plate so much easier and faster to instal without the need of using hex wrench to secure them, the plate’s screw holes comes threaded.

Ready to mount the Fanatec Clubsport Pedal

Installation is a breeze, all the holes lined up perfectly, 4xM6s from the bottom of GT Chassis screw straight to the plate and , 4 x M8s for securing the Clubsport Pedal.

With design such as this, the new plate actually reduces the amount of the protrusion corners from the base of the Chassis and as a result, the Clubsport pedal felt more as one(unify) to the GT Chassis now than ever, not only that I can hardly tell if there is a plate underneath, as the one before is much easier to spot.

more unify design.

All that little details above may seem too small to matter, however it all makes installing it, using it and looking at it much much easier, all those are the results of great designing and careful planning which should not be taken lightly.

Design and appearance compliments the Chassis and the Clubsport Pedal
Felt much firmer and more secure
Lighter in weight with same strength
Ready to install threaded screw holes, making this a hassle free to do.

None really

In the future when Fanatec finally shipped their CSR Elite pedal to australia, with the inverter kit. this plate will be a godsend as I can finally have inverted pedal on the Chassis if I decide to get the new pedal.
However for you GT Chassis owner out there that is planning or thinking of getting a CSP , CSR Elite pedal or the CSR Pedal , this converter kit is a tiny factor but is also very essential part.

I want to thank HumanRacing for creating and sending these plates to me, little things like this that makes me certain that not only they answer to the customer’s request but also improving the product to another level than just a bare minimum.

As always if you’d like to thank me for creating these tutorials, guides, tips and/or reviews. please click on donate button on the right column to help keep this running, Thank you.


Fanatec Clubsport Pedal Usage Review

Clubsport pedal is a full metal Aluminium construction pedal by Fanatec.

This version of the review will describe not only the specifications of the pedal, but also a full result after using this for 3-4 weeks daily for about 4 hours per day.

Why I choose this pedal even when I was using the G27 wheel from Logitech will be revealed below.

The dimension of the pedal are as follows ( for you whom is thinking of mounting this on your rig (reverse or F1 style)

Measurements and weights:

  • width: 13.4 inch [340 mm]
  • depth: 12.6 inch [320 mm]
  • height: 7.9 inch [200 mm]
  • weight: ~ 10.8 lbs [~ 4.9 kg]

The Specification

  • Solid aluminum construction
  • Adjustability on the pedal to allow heel&toe technique
  • Height of pedal plates can be adjusted to match foot size (so many holes…so many options)
  • Spring strength can be adjusted on gas and clutch
  • Vibration feedback motor on brake pedal to indicate locking tires. (see that motor behind the brake pedal) –

So what happened is that when I set the ABS on the wheel (see picture below) to say 50, it means after braking treshold reach 50% , the motor of the vibration will start to kick in.
However this will only work if you connect the Pedal directly to the wheel using the PS/2 Interface, not all games will support this vibration .if you connect it directly to PC via USB without Fanatec Wheel, ( so far only rFactor that can activate the motor when plugged in directly using USB to your PC without any fanatec wheel) (I made a mistake of this, must’ve been the late night testing, have just tested this again and the Vibration will NOT work with USB on rFactor apologies for the confusion)

  • Contactless magnetic high-precision sensor on accelerator and clutch with unlimited lifetime ( see the square aluminium attached to the clutch and gas pedal below)
  • it is a contactless potentiometer which measure the travel of the pedal whilst the brake pedal do not use this sensor.
  • The Brake pedal use Pressure sensitive load cell sensor on the brake. It control the brake force with muscle tension instead of movement
  • (see the load cell sticking out from the black aluminium block, next to the rotary dial) that is the Load cell.
  • With this sensor and stiffness of the brake it is very easy to modulate your brake, maintain the brake pressure for progressive braking.
  • Underneath the Pedal there are 2 connections (USB and PS/2) the PS/2 are connection to the Fanatec wheel , and the USB is for direct connection to the PC.

3 weeks of heavy usage:

I found that after 3 weeks of heavy usage now I can’t even brake without the hard pressure behind the brake pedal, I was so used to the muscle memory that when I start to press on the clutch ( mapping it as a brake) felt really “hollow”

I have a bit of problem unfortunately , the load cell started faulting.

The brake is showing that there is load even though I did not press it.

It is during race or time trails that I felt even though I press the gas pedal to the max the car won’t accelerate, and got passed by other opponents.
After 2 days I received the replacement of the brand new load cell, it took 5 minutes to replace it. ( well took me 30 minutes because I took it off the rig and dis-assemble the brake pedal a little and done an adjustment on the pedal positions)

After that everything works as it should be.I’ve been testing the load cell again for 3-4 days now and it hasn’t replicate the old problem .

So Im going to go to the point and straight to the Pros and Cons:

  • I haven’t see any after market pedal that offer load cell braking for under or around $300AU
  • the pedal is very solid, sturdy and strong
  • Adjustability if you want to heel toe or drive F1 where you can space out the brake pedal)
  • adjustable tension , how hard you want to clutch, gas or Brake
  • Load cell braking, instead of how far you press the pedal and stop mid-air , you pressed the brake pedal until it stops and apply pressure from there ( precision braking, it gets so easy in time, just like your hydraulic brake in real car) Easy to modulate braking and hold pressure to progressive brake.
  • looks awesome
  • feels very rigid from the all metal contruction
  • The ability to adjust how much pressure is comfortable for your feet to reach maximum braking point via the rotary dial.
  • the Ability of the brake to vibrate in sync with Steering wheel brake during when ABS point is reached, to let your foot’s muscle know that you are about to lock your tyre. maximum brake all time every time without reaching that locking point and slide.


  • Price – for AU$300 you can get the whole G27 during specials , and you only get the pedal for this price.
  • Load cell may brake ( however load cell replacement is free or if you want to buy spare it’s only $15)
  • The size is bigger than your average pedal (DFGT and G27) , much bigger it may require a converter / not fit your rig

The pedal is worth every penny that you saved in buying them, the built quality and durability certainly helps in displaying that.
Now that everything works after replacing the load cell sensor, I can say that this problem may or may not happen to you, however replacing it and getting the replacement sensor should not be a problem if it does happen.

Personally, I think this is a very high quality pedal, very durable and the Aluminium finish feels very firm under shoes or socks, ( never use this bare foot anymore) you will be pressing these hard during races.

I guess the selling point for me is the load cell braking, this have not made me a lot faster on my race however it has makes me so much consistent in braking and controlling my speed and I believe over time, this translates to better lap times. and I have to agree now that the most important elements in racing is the brake pedal, so many times have I tested this already, I out-brake people or AI without sliding off the grass because of this.

Now to display how the vibration motor works and ABS kicks in after the 50% threshold is reached please enjoy the video below

I hope you gain something from this simple usage review , I am trying to display not only the positives but also the negatives and hopefully will help you in making your decision easier.


How to mount Fanatec Shifter to HumanRacing GT Chassis Racing Rig

I’ve been receiving couple of questions in the past in regards to the mounting of the Fanatec Clubsport Pedal on to the humanRacing Gt Chassis rig, however one of the important questions that people often forgot is they will use and require a shifter as well. For those that have owned or used Fanatec Shifter know that the mounting solution for them sucks, because of these there are after market bracket just to cater this. Well instead of spending another $40-$60 on top of the Shifter (ie the after market brackets only work with 1 or 2 brand of racing rig and they are not the majority), I decided to use a very simple and cheap solutions to mount them on my HumanRacing GT Chassis (Until they produce an official mounting bracket for this Shifter). I also want to make sure that they are Sturdy, because it is not worth doing if it’s not strong enough. What I use was 2 x 2mm wide and 2 x 3mm wide cable ties. below image are the results. The H-Patern Shifter on the Left side As you see the bottom of the shifter have no mounting point whatsoever and the PS/2 connection to the wheel is at the bottom of the shifter Meanwhile the sequential I mount on the right to enable fast switching from the H-Patern to Sequential. Connection for the shifters are on both sides of the wheel. but they cannot be both connected at the same time. Switching is simply pulling one and plugging the other. The Infamous “Chopstick” mount it’s quite sturdy for the Sequential shifter but not the H-patern. For H-Ppatern Shifter of Fanatec I would recoomend hard mounting them on to a sturdy platform instead of using the “Chopstick” The results are phenomenal , quick switching and sturdy mount, which also mean I don’t have to pull shifter out of the chopstick mount whenever I need to change shifter ( they are quite hard to pull out) Here are the video displaying how sturdy it is I hope this little tips helps you in someways that it has help myself. happy racing and we’ll see you on the track 🙂 Marcus

UPDATE post: HumanRacing have just announced their new designed Fanatec CSR Shifter mount. Check out pictures below.

Pictures are courtesy of HumanRacing and V12 Germany

Another simple yet very elegant design and accessories for the GT Chassis.

As always if you’d like to thank me for creating these tutorials, guides, tips and/or reviews. please click on donate button on the right column to help keep this running, Thank you.


HumanRacing GT Chassis Iridium with Clubsport Pedal

As promised, the custom seat and Fanatec Clubsport Pedal converter plate was air freighted to Sydney and finally arrived here after couple of days and I must say Im very impress with the quality of the paint job, as always.I’d like to use this chance to thank Human Racing again for making and sending these all the way from Thailand to Australia.

Please enjoy these pictures below.
PS: HumanRacing also have keyboard and Mouse stand for this Chassis, and I am looking forward to test them out once available.

Here’ s a bit of after/before picture

Before and After

while still using G27 pedal I managed to take couple of shots

Plate converter during assembly (4 long M6 hex screws are also included in the package)

After Assembly

Final Results

Must admit they do looks nice together. (still a bit of cable clutter)

looking a bit like a space car isn’t it

Time for me to test drive this beauty

Here’s the Video of CSP +G27 in action (bit of fun project to say thank you to HumanRacing)

As always if you’d like to thank me for creating these tutorials, guides, tips and/or reviews. please click on donate button on the right column to help keep this running, Thank you.

I Hope you’ve enjoyed this as much as I have.
Thank you for reading.