MMOs – OSW Open Sim Wheel Project

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2015 Everyone 🙂


MMOs OSW Opensimwheel Project


This won’t be a review or a tutorial of the project, It is only a photo log of my project from start to finished. (with a little bit of explanation)

Firstly, I would like to thank Phillip Jansen Van rensburg (a.k.a Beano) for the tutorial guide from the iRacing forum (Link to the tutorial is here) which can be followed just as I did to complete this project.

I also would like to thank:

MMOs form forum for the software + Firmware and his dedication of R&D to make this project a possibility

Berhard Berger from the

Martin Ascher for the mount and written tutorial guide link here ( and his driving videos 🙂 – Check out his website if you haven’t already at

Everyone in this project who makes this dream a reality by your contribution be it suggestions or opinion, I thank you very very much.

Additional pre-project reading material and source to download the file (Software side of things) can be found in MMOs thread in Virtualracing forum here (You’ll need a google chrome or translate for non german speaking reader) The main important thing before I start this project is to understand the wiring diagram that Beano post on the thread, after studying it carefully and understand it, I started my adventure. First of, this is the Build of Material that I use (the 4 last entry on the spreadsheets are from Jaycar electronics)

LARGER 20-30nM 130ST-M15015
130ST-M15015 1
Cables and connectors Contact Lisa Zhan via email 1
Power Supply ARGON SNT RS 25 24 1
Digital Servo Drive Argon 1
HAlf brick Heat Sink (argon & VSD-E) – Link 4
ARgon Resistor 250W 82 Ohm – Link 1
Simple Motion V2 USB Adapter 1
COUPON CODE FOR ARGON: V2dDG429, V8jf432d, V7jf432d
Alu Enclosure-Link 1
Drivelock bush×47-dl13-9694 1
adapter board for Discovery Dennis Reiner info Available after 17/12/2014 1
HUB from BEano 1
Servo Mount from Martin Ascher 1
10amp Incoming AC (230vAC) line filter – Link 1
dual pole Emergency Push button (for 3 Phase Estop) 1
120mm 12v DC Silent Fan from Jaycar 1
Power Converter from 24vac – 12v DC Jaycar 1
Jumper cable, fuse, fuse holder, cat 6s, switch, fasteners, terminal block, rainbow 15 ribbon cable,db15 head, 26pin ribbon , Ferrites choke, 3 core cable 1
Single pole Emergency Switch(for enabler) , neutrik usb, jumper lead, power switch. 1

Start of picture below. these are the first stage when parts start arriving. it doesn’t take very long for it to arrive Mainly 1-2 weeks ( it was the Christmas period after all) Picture of Mige servo arrival (bottom box servo, top box cables) the servo weighs at 13.5Kg

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The hub mount that can be coupled with the Split bushing arrived, thank you Beano (picture shows with 2 layer of RMK adapter mounted)

The Rest of the material arrived ( Box, controller, Discovery, PSU filter,etc )

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Material Preparation , (Wiring diagram – Check, wires- Check, tools -check)

Messy colourful wires is a necessity 😛

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Back and side view one last time before closing 

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Wiring completed

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Calibration Stage

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Martin’s Mount Arrived 



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Testing time
2015 is a great year for sim racers, going from normal wheel to direct drive is like going from CRT to a triple screen racing, not going to give review but After  2 weeks racing and driving with MMOs wheel full time, I am very very amazed.

This is the impression I gave to those who asks:

Star Mazda at Road Atlanta

” it’s sooo stiff and violent all the road surface and bumps are so rapid and you will feel so connected to the road like ever before”

larger NM number means weaker FFB – so that video was at 48Nm It is now 28Nm, When I click 1 more up it becomes 45Nm, meaning it’s about 60.1% of the full force iracing supply, still not 1:1 yet it is now 1:1 (100%) (until I crank it up to 28Nm) however even at 45Nm in iracing slider, during the double right hand apex hairpin, when I accidentally clip a curb too high, my elbow felt like it was about to buckle, i think to drive this at a right force, you need a correct seating position to ensure it is safe, real race car position where the steering wheel is close to your chest and high, so you utilise your back muscle to turn that wheel instead of using your hand muscle.”

another thing is with Direct Drive wheel, it is not like normal wheel where when you crank up the force you loose detail because of clipping, the more force you crank up the clearer and more powerfull the detail is. there is no clipping in F Meter, and most importantly you push that wheel to the limit = pushing the tyre to limit, when tyre start to loose traction you will feel the wheel got loosen and lighter so clearly and much earlier, you know it’s time to catch that slide baby!!
Real VS virtual (Virtual Ouch!)

 the force that I apply to the brake pedal can be felt soo clear and so precise with this wheel , the more pressure I put, the heavier the wheel is and turning is like lifting 10KG of weight , I understand now why race car driver use steering weight training”

Daytona in a Ford GT3

one thing that really surprises me I can feel road surface again- oh the joy, road surface feeling since the G27 is now back baby and it’s on steroids, it’s gives me instant road feel so fast so many times, again and again, I kept smiling lap after lap , there is subtle vibration with every bumps and grid of the road ( I was thinking this is a placebo at first) but after 2 hour, I I know Im not crazy, daytona road surface felt smoother on the bottom than on top, top is a bit rougher, with t500 the road surface can be felt too , but with this it’s like amplified and clarified so many times that I am so sure it’s a fact (a subtle vibration can be felt a lot more on top than on the bottom).

The elevation of car ‘s weight transfer during Bathurst corkscrew experience is such a wakeup call. With this wheel I can feel that a turn should be done this way not that way, the speed of turning and the angle of turning dictated so strongly that If I fight it I know I’ll crash or spin ), I am more patience with my throtle because I can feel a lot more with my steering wheel and Im waiting for it to tell me when it is ok to push and when it’s not, it is clear as night and day.

I can let the car and steering wheel and the weight of the car glide into position, do it’s job, rather than me muscling it or forcing the car to do turns that is unnatural The weight of the car and road surface can be felt so much faster and instant than what I have played with before.

In my first lap, because I wasn’t expecting such a jolt and culture shock, I was 5 -6 seconds off my normal time, on lap 5, Im 100th off my normal laptime. lap 8 I was doing a purple lap by half a second, by lap 10 I hit 1 second faster than my PB with t500.(im still very slow but this wheel has really woke me up to what a steering wheel should feel like) 

it really is something that needs to be felt to understand.”

Testing Gamestock Car Extreme Formula V12

100% Force Oulton Park in a Lotus 79

70% Force – Road Atlanta in Radical SR8


Marcus Hwang



How to map SLI-PRO rotary switch to iRacing

(Also works on rFactor, rFactor2, Game Stock Car and SimBin Series)

This guide has been in the plan for sometimes , however since a video is a much more effective tool in the delivering the message, this video is recorded.

This is a quick guide for those that wants to set up mapping on each position of the Rotary Switch.

These rotaries switch(es) are a much better tool to use for mapping keystroke / functions than rotary encoders , they are much easier to use and much more “precise”.

Rotary encoders are nice for volume controls, adjusting seat, in fact the old analogue radio tuner and Volume knob on your car that you pressed to turn it on and rotate to adjust volume are all rotary encoders.
However if you try to turn on the encoder’s knob , Say you assigned “NEXT Black box” and “Prev black box” on an encoder, each pulse when turning act as a press of a button, while its fantastic – it’s hard to stop at a certain point unless you focus your attention to the screen of what is displaying while you turn the encoder’s knob – and this, might not be very good while you drive.

Rotary Switches in other hand provide a stopping point and/or precise-exact location for a function/press , during race /practice, this is critical -,Every time the knob turns to a position, it acts as if a button is pressed , (like in the video Position 1 can be an F1 and position 3 can be F12 – it doesn’t’ have to go through 4-11 to get to 12, unlike encoders).

When the click/switch is sitting and stopped at a spot, it displays that requested information for that particular position every time, whether is F1 or F10. (i.e. 6 O’clock position is always F6 or 3 O’clock is always F3, if it’s mapped that way), try doing this with an encoders, and you’ll get different result every time even though the clock position is the same.

Think of it like this: An encoders acts like Sequential shifters , it can only reach 4th after going through 3rd or after coming back from 5th gear – While rotary switch disregard sequential rules – they act like H-Patern shifter (in a rotation manner) it can go to 3rd gear from 5th directly without ever going through 4th – as long as they are next to each other in the rotation position.

This is why , it is recommended to use 2 rotary switches with SLI-PRO to control the left and right displays – Encoders works also (assignable in controls mappings as Next and prev in SLIMAX manager) however it requires the user to look at the display and stop turning when the information requested is displayed.

In the video below I use iRacing as an example but once you finished watching this, you’ll understand that if you assign the same function key(s) in other sim such as rFactor (2) , Simbin, or Game Stock Car – they will work just like iniRacing.

The Rotary switch used in the picture above only have 3 points to solder instead of 12 + 1 ground- these are made by Leo Bodnar and you can purchase them at 5 GBP each at

The Video bellows shows a step by step on how to map the rotary switch to iRacing Black Box


SLI-PRO and SLIMAX-Manager V2.2

*****UPDATE 23-4-2012 (Custom limiter message display for each Sim)*****

The SLI-PRO now displaying different Speed Limiter message during Pit, works on iRacing, rFactor and Race07/Injection Steam version.

Video is below this message.


Quick video guide of how you can customize your SLI-PRO and new features of the Version 2.2 and how to restore old settings into new version.

This is not a full tutorial, however if you have installed V2.1, then the newest Version 2.2 (for 21 April 2012) should easily installed on the old version and your old configs and scripts are backed up in your installation folder, in addition The new Version 2.2 have much more config files inside the CFG folder, and the ability to map Characters to your rotary switch.

full details are at


How To Build A Button box for PS3 and PC

****Update shifter and handbrake connection to the Cthulu PCB to be used in PS3****


Preparation bench 😉


M6 Screws for mounting, (Left Handbrake connected to “O” button on the Cthulhu, and Right (purple) connected to L1+L2 buttons for shifting up and down


Connection view with 2 PCB (BBI-32 and Cthulhu)


***********QUICK UPDATE on the button box Side: (03 March 2012)****************

I’ve changed the button box’s face all together, not enough rotaries and buttons at the moment, so with the new face plate, I’ve added 11 more buttons (coming from SLI-PRO) and soon 3 push rotary Encoders into the box. picture below shows the plan and measurements. it is always good to use the rig from the buttons to place it where the buttons will go first before proceeding to drill the holes, as you can easily see whether or not you will like the layout.

Wiring it is a big challenge as now I’ve added around 26 wires that I have to terminate each end and when the 3 rotary encoders arrived.

I have 9 more wire to terminate which I have ready in the box. by then I will post tutorial of how to wire the rotary encoders and a little bit of assigning it on the SLI-PRO.

Full starting guide is below



Today I’m going to share with you how I make my button box that works both on PC as well as PS3.

For those that are not familiar with button box’s concept. it is a box/panel with buttons for quick access to your most important controls/ switches in-car during your sim racing.
for example: Changing Brake Bias to Forward or Back, setting fuel level during pit , tire, check lap time. position and Delta Time, Mute, Start Engine, Ignition, speed limiter , pit request etc.

Normally during gameplay you could assign this to your steering wheel, however to give it a bit more depth in realism, just like real race car, that use button box, well… like most race cars except open wheeler, I decided to built one this time.

If you own(ed) DFGT wheel, you know that you can change car settings live during gameplay in Gran Turismo 5 with the RA dial, but using a GT3 RS v2, gave no assignable buttons on the wheel in game except, Start, Select, Circle, and L1, this has been my main reason in PS3, and in PC, I built this for iRacing and rFactor.

On PC, it is pretty easy to assign these buttons to those request/ parameter, it is in game control settings, however in PS3, the only racing game I know of that allows secondary controller to act like controller 1 is Gran Turismo 5. ( if you don’t know: press PS button on that controller and assign it to controller 1 / the controller number of you steering wheel) and this needs only done once after PS3 starts.

The main board I used for this is a Toodles Cthulhu Boards that I purchased a while ago to make a Fight sticks for Street fighter(s) that works with PS3 and PC, now if you have old Fightstick that you are not using any more and they works with both systems feel free to use them as well, make sure you know which solder points are to which button.

The Cthulhu board is very straight forward, there are no solder points, as picture above. it uses a quick release points for all your wire, the boards are not labelled however they come with a very detailed instruction with picture explaining which socket does what.

an old creations, my proud and joy before I discovered Sim Racing.

I have more than enough of this PCB at my disposal, and because all my fight sticks works with PS3 and PC natively, so will this box.

To build this I use

  1. An ABS Project box with a dimension of 178 x 122 x 55mm, it is a very very thick and smooth looking box.
  2. 10 x Momentary buttons (apparently)weather proof. (Select, PS, L1, L2, R1, R2, Triangle, Square, Circle and X)
  3. 1 x Sanwa Button for Start Button
  4. a Missile switch to disconnect and power everything in the box (Just for added Look and Security)
  5. about 2 -3 m of Wire ( feel free to use wire from your CAT 5 Network cable , they work just fine, just make sure they are multi thread core as single core are hard to bend)
  6. 2 x Momentary 2 way toggle switch ( for directional Pad connection “Left”, Down” Up” right”)
  7. 1 x A4 sheet of 3M Di-Noc Carbon layer
  8. Quick disconnects, for connecting cable to those buttons

Once all the material above arrived , I drilled 11 x 13mm holes for the black buttons and missile switch on the faceplate according to the layout that I want, and another 30mm holes for the sanwa button., Cover the box with the 3M Di-Noc carbon layer and cut the drilled holes for buttons fitting and fit the buttons.

For the connection point, I made a square hole on the side so the PCB’s USB port stick out flushed on the side of the box for easy disconnection.
I crimped the quick disconnects to the wire as picture above for every single wire. leaving the end bit open for screwing it into the PCB Terminals.
connect your USB cable to your PS3 , pressed the home button and assigned it to controller 1 and THAT’S IT.

At the moment I am still waiting for 2 of the toggle switches to arrive before i complete this project, however during testing, every button works , and works really well.
I have been using this for 2 races in iRacing Last night and I must say they are so much better than finding that key on keyboard.
Here are some more pictures of the end result, I will post more picture in action and videos once the Toggle switch arrived. If you enjoy driving games and in to racing sims, a button box is going to be your help from time to time.



2 Empty spots on top for toggle switches once they’ve arrived.

I’ve made Mounting Point for HumanRacing GT Chassis ...will post more pictures once finished,  As Promised, the toggle switch are not here yet is now at the bottom picture, however the mount is finished, this is built from a piece of aluminium plate, M6 holes and screw nuts to the bottom of the box. turns out very solid.

As always if you’d like to thank me for creating these tutorials, guides and tips. please click on donate button on the right column to help keep this running, Thank you.

Overall time taken for this project is about 2 hours spread over 3 days. It has been a fun process Hope this helps you somehow 🙂


As promised , here is the video in action

+++++++++NEW UPDATE  30th JAN 2012+++++++++

Since I have went ahead and ordered an SLI-PRO from Leo Bodnar, I’ve managed to re-vamped this box to include an extra 2 holes for the rotary switch  to adjust the SLI-PRO screen. I will keep this updated.

Here’s a bit more integration with the SLI PRO and Bodnar’s 12 pos Switch implemented.