MMOs – OSW Open Sim Wheel Project

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2015 Everyone 🙂


MMOs OSW Opensimwheel Project


This won’t be a review or a tutorial of the project, It is only a photo log of my project from start to finished. (with a little bit of explanation)

Firstly, I would like to thank Phillip Jansen Van rensburg (a.k.a Beano) for the tutorial guide from the iRacing forum (Link to the tutorial is here) which can be followed just as I did to complete this project.

I also would like to thank:

MMOs form forum for the software + Firmware and his dedication of R&D to make this project a possibility

Berhard Berger from the

Martin Ascher for the mount and written tutorial guide link here ( and his driving videos 🙂 – Check out his website if you haven’t already at

Everyone in this project who makes this dream a reality by your contribution be it suggestions or opinion, I thank you very very much.

Additional pre-project reading material and source to download the file (Software side of things) can be found in MMOs thread in Virtualracing forum here (You’ll need a google chrome or translate for non german speaking reader) The main important thing before I start this project is to understand the wiring diagram that Beano post on the thread, after studying it carefully and understand it, I started my adventure. First of, this is the Build of Material that I use (the 4 last entry on the spreadsheets are from Jaycar electronics)

LARGER 20-30nM 130ST-M15015
130ST-M15015 1
Cables and connectors Contact Lisa Zhan via email 1
Power Supply ARGON SNT RS 25 24 1
Digital Servo Drive Argon 1
HAlf brick Heat Sink (argon & VSD-E) – Link 4
ARgon Resistor 250W 82 Ohm – Link 1
Simple Motion V2 USB Adapter 1
COUPON CODE FOR ARGON: V2dDG429, V8jf432d, V7jf432d
Alu Enclosure-Link 1
Drivelock bush×47-dl13-9694 1
adapter board for Discovery Dennis Reiner info Available after 17/12/2014 1
HUB from BEano 1
Servo Mount from Martin Ascher 1
10amp Incoming AC (230vAC) line filter – Link 1
dual pole Emergency Push button (for 3 Phase Estop) 1
120mm 12v DC Silent Fan from Jaycar 1
Power Converter from 24vac – 12v DC Jaycar 1
Jumper cable, fuse, fuse holder, cat 6s, switch, fasteners, terminal block, rainbow 15 ribbon cable,db15 head, 26pin ribbon , Ferrites choke, 3 core cable 1
Single pole Emergency Switch(for enabler) , neutrik usb, jumper lead, power switch. 1

Start of picture below. these are the first stage when parts start arriving. it doesn’t take very long for it to arrive Mainly 1-2 weeks ( it was the Christmas period after all) Picture of Mige servo arrival (bottom box servo, top box cables) the servo weighs at 13.5Kg

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The hub mount that can be coupled with the Split bushing arrived, thank you Beano (picture shows with 2 layer of RMK adapter mounted)

The Rest of the material arrived ( Box, controller, Discovery, PSU filter,etc )

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Material Preparation , (Wiring diagram – Check, wires- Check, tools -check)

Messy colourful wires is a necessity 😛

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Back and side view one last time before closing 

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Wiring completed

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Calibration Stage

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Martin’s Mount Arrived 



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Testing time
2015 is a great year for sim racers, going from normal wheel to direct drive is like going from CRT to a triple screen racing, not going to give review but After  2 weeks racing and driving with MMOs wheel full time, I am very very amazed.

This is the impression I gave to those who asks:

Star Mazda at Road Atlanta

” it’s sooo stiff and violent all the road surface and bumps are so rapid and you will feel so connected to the road like ever before”

larger NM number means weaker FFB – so that video was at 48Nm It is now 28Nm, When I click 1 more up it becomes 45Nm, meaning it’s about 60.1% of the full force iracing supply, still not 1:1 yet it is now 1:1 (100%) (until I crank it up to 28Nm) however even at 45Nm in iracing slider, during the double right hand apex hairpin, when I accidentally clip a curb too high, my elbow felt like it was about to buckle, i think to drive this at a right force, you need a correct seating position to ensure it is safe, real race car position where the steering wheel is close to your chest and high, so you utilise your back muscle to turn that wheel instead of using your hand muscle.”

another thing is with Direct Drive wheel, it is not like normal wheel where when you crank up the force you loose detail because of clipping, the more force you crank up the clearer and more powerfull the detail is. there is no clipping in F Meter, and most importantly you push that wheel to the limit = pushing the tyre to limit, when tyre start to loose traction you will feel the wheel got loosen and lighter so clearly and much earlier, you know it’s time to catch that slide baby!!
Real VS virtual (Virtual Ouch!)

 the force that I apply to the brake pedal can be felt soo clear and so precise with this wheel , the more pressure I put, the heavier the wheel is and turning is like lifting 10KG of weight , I understand now why race car driver use steering weight training”

Daytona in a Ford GT3

one thing that really surprises me I can feel road surface again- oh the joy, road surface feeling since the G27 is now back baby and it’s on steroids, it’s gives me instant road feel so fast so many times, again and again, I kept smiling lap after lap , there is subtle vibration with every bumps and grid of the road ( I was thinking this is a placebo at first) but after 2 hour, I I know Im not crazy, daytona road surface felt smoother on the bottom than on top, top is a bit rougher, with t500 the road surface can be felt too , but with this it’s like amplified and clarified so many times that I am so sure it’s a fact (a subtle vibration can be felt a lot more on top than on the bottom).

The elevation of car ‘s weight transfer during Bathurst corkscrew experience is such a wakeup call. With this wheel I can feel that a turn should be done this way not that way, the speed of turning and the angle of turning dictated so strongly that If I fight it I know I’ll crash or spin ), I am more patience with my throtle because I can feel a lot more with my steering wheel and Im waiting for it to tell me when it is ok to push and when it’s not, it is clear as night and day.

I can let the car and steering wheel and the weight of the car glide into position, do it’s job, rather than me muscling it or forcing the car to do turns that is unnatural The weight of the car and road surface can be felt so much faster and instant than what I have played with before.

In my first lap, because I wasn’t expecting such a jolt and culture shock, I was 5 -6 seconds off my normal time, on lap 5, Im 100th off my normal laptime. lap 8 I was doing a purple lap by half a second, by lap 10 I hit 1 second faster than my PB with t500.(im still very slow but this wheel has really woke me up to what a steering wheel should feel like) 

it really is something that needs to be felt to understand.”

Testing Gamestock Car Extreme Formula V12

100% Force Oulton Park in a Lotus 79

70% Force – Road Atlanta in Radical SR8


Marcus Hwang



The Player Frame Set by HumanRacing

I am fortunate enough to not only get to test and own one of the best racing rig in the market, now I received a second one. This second one I received of HumanRacing however, is much more “open” in terms of options and accessories to choose.

Initially, when I bought my first one, everything comes in one packet, one solution, frame with adjustable wheel mount, seat, slider and gear mount.

All is fantastic, but what if you don’t need the gear mount as yet, or the seat , or the slider. What if you have your own bucket seat and seat slider and really like the design and look of GT Chassis?, Can you just get the frame set?, well now you can !!!!

Introducing the Player Frame Set

Link : here

Well I was really excited when I saw this option, as Initially I was really thinking of getting another rig for my workstations, not just for racing games but one for work , watching movies, graphic or video editing and do what we all do when we sit in front of a computer… to relax.
Good thing is, now I can 🙂 (There are couple of options that I can do to make this work I will post in a near future when the occasion is right)

Now I am given the options , to Mix and Match there are option to go both ways now.

Use optional after market seat and slider or use HumanRacing’s slider kit or non sliding mounts, gear mount (possibly for mouse tray) or without. It’s like picking candy in a store.

Not to mention at a bonus price of (US $540) less than half of it’s brother with full kit (US $1442) link:Here

All the measurements are still the same, and it is identical to the silver one I have down here, still the best in comfort ,highest quality and at minimum to none  @wobbles in steering wheel mounts, It’s still the best in the market.

Finished installed seat result. with no gear mounts and pedal below

I think it’s a fantastic solution that they have created, really gives that flexibility over which accessories to get (see examples here).

I’ve manage to capture some footage of when I was installing the seat. So I hope you have as much fun as I have in making this video and writing this.




What can Xpadder do

To easily explain this. Xpadder is one of the keyboard and button mapping software, it can basically turn your joystick/ button box in to keyboard strokes, mouse axis and/or button, and with your button box, the possibilities are endless.

What I did with mine was to assign, a button to say “thanks”, “Good Luck”, 1 button for no tire or no fuel, 1 button for 7.9l of fuel and 3.9 l of fuel for quick pit stop.
I never have to race that long to need a pit stop. yet. however if Im moving to ovals it’s going to be very handy.

Here’s a quick demonstration of what the Xpadder can do on the button box.

Xpadder can be bought/Downloaded for AU$10.95 from, and all Manuals and instructions can be downloaded from here


SLI-PRO Review

The SLI-PRO by Leo Bodnar have been around for some times, I always wanted to own one of this, so I decided to get it and do a quick review on them.

First the Price it is quite expensive for such a small piece of Printed Circuit Board (PCB), however it is a very amazing small PCB nonetheless, accompanied by the SLI-MAX Manager II by EK software it becomes very powerful tool.

We’ll get to the software bit later, right now lets focus on the Hardware itself, the SLI-PRO or Shift Light Indicator PRO Version have 2 versions, SLI-M and SLI-PRO, the -M version does not include the 6+1 digits display panel, It has the same amount of functions (Read:buttons) up to 16 buttons and 8 rotary encoders can be wired directly. more info can be seen here.

I won’t bore you with the details of the descriptions, lets rate them by 5 Category.

At £100 (AU$149.57) for the PCB
£7 for all the cables,
£10 for 2 of the Special Rotary Switches +
it comes down to a total cost of £121.99 (AU$182.5)
Which is quite expensive considering a TH8RS Shifter from Cost US $149 (AU $144.9)

Front and Back

However this gives 32 more functions (including rotary switches) and analogue inputs if you wish to have them (for connecting Pedals or Handbrake with potentiometer).

Below is the Rotary Switches that has been connected by solder points. (notice it only take 3 connections even though it has 12 Positions)
Normally you would ended up with many many wires, This one took 3 (Ground, 5V and Data) to get the job done.

2. Compatibility and Installation.
It is compatible with PC only, via USB that you can connect from the USB port or if you choose so you can splice the USB cable that come with the SLI and wire them direct to the PCB USB Points. the Instructions and Color Coding is very easy to follow and straight forward.

Below when I ran testing on the rotary switches, it is using the ribbon cables that cost £7 (optional) im not sure how you are going to wire them without it.

for £7 more you get 4 cables to connect everything so you don’t have to worry about soldering it on to the PCB, highly recommended.

Instruction is online at and in the SLI-PRO Section, very clear and precise in colour coding and wire numbers.

3. Usefulness
Having it wont make you faster, and you won’t be in a disadvantage without it either.

However if building , wiring, and DIY is your thing, this SLI is a must have, and it is for number of reasons below.
Button Box , All those wires can be connected to lots and lots of Buttons for your Button Box (PC only),

In the Picture below I added 2 of the rotary switches for the SLI-PRO in to my PS3 & PC Button box and wire them out of the box and into the SLI instead of Cthulu board.

Other many additional benefits such as:
DIY Pedal, the PCB cater for Analogue Inputs for you Potentiometer (CST/Cannon’s pedal use Leo Bodnar’s PCB and Potentiometer for the gas and Clutch)

Helps you determine how much rev point you currently in. with the adjustable LED brightness, you can see the rev points easily through your peripherals vision without even looking directly to the LED (my suggestion is to turn the brightness down to around 48% to avoid face melting moments and black spots in your eyes)

Very customisable functions can be displayed, , time, Fuel, H2O , Oil, Speed, Rev point, Lap, Splits, etc

Very useful notification LED – Beside the 13 LED for the rev, it comes with 6 additional ones at the bottom. I use them to notify Low fuel, Car Damage, blue flag etc) and I add additional 5 External LED for other functions as well.

-With iRacing, each car’s OSP (Optimal Shift Point) is different, in the SLI Manager in iRacing sections where you store the plugins, it has all the script for most of the cars so you don’t need to create one manually and not only that the different type of shift lights match the exact car’s Shift Light (ie, Side to centre, or left to right, or RGB Left to Right) very cool.

– If you run your screen lower so your in-game wheel top overlap with your steering wheel, the in-game rev lights will not be visible, unless you drop your screen really low, Having this below your wheel replace that missing lights.

4. Software
The Software is provided by and it is not free, you need to run the SLI Manager to find out your SLI Serial number and register your serial before you can use the SLI-MAX Manager II, to register you are required to make a minimum Donation of £5 or US $7, for the support and future software upgrade etc.

The software is pretty much the brain in controlling the SLI, It looks like a very powerful software , it is pretty easy to use, however to do custom customisation on your SLI (Ie. programming macros for buttons, display etc and debug) you will need to use the forum and ask, a moderator is almost always there and very helpful, Unless you are a masterful C++ coders and have good knowledge of the LUA Language, I would hit the Forum and start reading .

I spent about 4 hours looking and reading How Tos and FAQs , to make sure I didn’t make any mistake.

So far this thing is working flawlessly ( almost a plug-n play ) if you didn’t want to configure buttons and etc like I did.
I test run the SLI-PRO on rFactor, iRacing, DiRT2, DiRT3, F1 2011, and F1 2010. Make sure you download all the latest plugins from the EK Website even after you Super Clean install the latest SLI manager, once that’s done it’s pretty much racing time.

Assigning buttons is as simple as in game setting and choosing funtions and press the button/Switch / Encoder (ie, Brake Bias Knob).

5. Overall


Price (a bit lower like US$100 would be reasonable) considering SLI-M is US $74.99 Software could use a bit of tutorial online, and forum support while good, information in there is quite hard to find. everything is almost in an FAQ format. Not compatible with PS3 or XBOX 360 Not enough mounting solutions options and when there is, it is mostly expensive. I used DSD SLI box which is US $59.75 and it not a very cheap solution out there and with no mounting holes or any cable holes predrilled at the back, quite rough quality, no fasteners and non- predrilled holes for the front plate to go into the box it self, I was quite disappointed with the quality of the box. I had to take out the drill and grinder to cut a rough holes and drilled couple of holes in the box for securing the front plate on to the box, I don’t think the ABS plastic and chemical dust it any good around my kid or indoor, and there were heaps.
I will not run a separate review on Derek Spear SLI box because of the reasons above. His pedal pad is very good and however this SLI mounting box, except for the front plate which is from real carbon fibre and high quality and looks good from the front, the box it self is made from the same material of the pedal and lack of many basic things as mentioned above, I felt the $60 price tag is only for a front plate.

Lets continue to the good stuff now.


  • More immersion – Helps making the drive “that” much better,
  • It gives you more information than a screen can.
  • Customisable information to be displayed at your will
  • Buttons, rotary switches and rotary encoders (Before only toggle switches and Buttons)
  • Make your rig looks more eye catching.
  • It’s like buying ice cream in a box that you can mix and creates new flavours.
  • If you are bored with the mount in front, Many have built an F1 steering wheel and put the SLI Pro in it with all the required buttons and rotaries.
  • Have I mentioned how good it looks

Before using this I’ve tried, couple of iphone apps for iracing and rFactor, while good, they are by no means bright enough, and while using them on your ipod touch and iphone is fun and wirelessly good. receiving an email notification, facetime calls and phone call while you are racing and blocking the information could increase the chance of incident(s)

Would I recommend this ?
If you have extra money to do it, and you want the extra immersion , YES ABSOLUTELY, This is almost timeless, I’ve seen videos from 2009 and it still looks impressive until today Feb 2012.
It is a must have to add flare to your sim rig, it adds extra immersion, fun and functions.

I have learned and struggled a little for the past 2 days putting it together, it’s not even close to perfecting it , there is still so much I can do with this, rotary encoders for brightness and brake bias, another rotary switch for in-game functions, potentiometer for stand alone handbrake. but for now, I am quite satisfied with the way it looks ,function and “shine”, I have attached this with an “L” bracket under my wheel plate, it will be there permanently, and if you haven’t guessed already I am very happy I took a bite and bought this. Well done Leo Bodnar for creating such a device and EK for the software. this will be a permanent resident of my rig from now on.

You can purchase the SLI-PRO from : Leo Bodnar’s Site and get the Software from EK Sim Racing.

I hope with this review, you’ve gained a step closer to understanding this and help in making your decision whether or not this is for you and justifiable.

Below is a little (read: fun) test video that I run under this review.I hope you enjoy it 🙂


******QUICK UPDATE on the button box Side: (03 March 2012)********

I’ve changed the button box’s face all together, not enough rotaries and buttons at the moment, so with the new face plate, I’ve added 11 more buttons (coming from SLI-PRO) and soon 3 push rotary Encoders into the box. picture below shows the plan and measurements. it is always good to use the rig from the buttons to place it where the buttons will go first before proceeding to drill the holes, as you can easily see whether or not you will like the layout.

Wiring it is a big challenge as now I’ve added around 26 wires that I have to terminate each end and when the 3 rotary encoders arrived.

I have 9 more wire to terminate which I have ready in the box. by then I will post tutorial of how to wire the rotary encoders and a little bit of assigning it on the SLI-PRO.

Test video of the external led and SLI-PRO Button box

TH8RS modes

Many of you that known /own a Thrustmaster T500 RS wheel , knew that they’ve released the H-Patern Shifter that can also be change into a Sequential mode by changing the Plate around.Well I have just acquired one recently and I’m quite pleased with it, so Im going to share a bit about what they can do.

1. H Pattern Shifter – Adjustable tension and they feel really good. The throw is a bit on the larger side , however this can be shorten by shortening the shaft.

2. Sequential mode. I personally think they are really nice. it have a solid and dampened “Thump” to it , very rugged and solid feel to it.

3. My personal favourite and this is my main reason of buying this shifter in the first place ( Im curious to try and see if this is only good on paper).
The Handbrake mode (Analogue mode)
Instead of acting like a button (on/off) on each gate/ shift , by turning on the analogue mode (clicking analogue in the shifter properties in the control panel),

The shifter acts like an axis and progressively increase the value the more you pull. All you do is rotate the H-patern plate like below.

So gear “1” is on the right top corner and Gear “R” is on the bottom left corner.
so once you pull the lever towards you the axis’ value increase.. hence analogue mode.
And of course you can map this as “accelerate” or anything in game however that’s the gas pedal’s job.

This is meant to be assign as a Handbrake function, it simulates Handbrake in cars. ie. the more you pull, the harder it brakes.
before I continue further, I wanted to mention some fact below.

I think Thrustmaster really outdone themselves here, this is the only shifter that have 3 different functions in one, and they’ve done it really well with adjustable tension, rotatable mount and rotatable shifter position, they have really thought and planned about this , and the quality of the shifter it self is amazing.
A. 90% is metal,
B. No internal mechanical friction ( Hall Effect Sensor) so you’ll have unlimited lifetime ( at least that’s what they claimed to be)
C.Works on PC and PS3 ( however the analogue mode is PC only)
D. Adjustable tension.
E. Excellent Price at US $149 from

Back to the Handbrake topic, pulling the lever may simulate handbrake but one thing that is missing is the tension, there is almost no tension when pulling the handbrake this way, at least not a progressive tension, so I did a little “nixim-like” mode to it, what you can do to make the tension rise the more you pull the lever is by adding a simple piece of innocent foam/rubber in front of the lever, at least now you need to apply more force to brake harder and you can gauge how much you want to park that truck.

Another thing , I know rally Handbrake is supposed to be Vertical, but Im so used to Horizontal/ angled handbrake and the car that I drive in real live have horizontal/angled handbrake, it’s only second nature and Automatic reflex that every time Im aiming for the Handbrake my arm reach to the side instead of up front. This has now my permanent Handbrake.

I love using them this way, it felt so natural, I don’t even have to look where they are when I need them now, but this is of course a personal preferences, I suggest you give horizontal mount a try and see how easy it becomes now to pull the lever.

My rig have rotatable gear mount so it’s very easy to change the angles or heights, it’s also another reason why I love this rig more than any other rig on the market.

I hope this helps you in making your decision easier if you are still deciding which shifter to get.
The Video below demonstrates the better angle for me and how you put it in analogue mode. Enjoy

As always if you’d like to thank me for creating these tutorials, guides, tips and/or reviews. please click on donate button on the right column to help keep this running, Thank you.


Fanatec Clubsport Pedal Usage Review

Clubsport pedal is a full metal Aluminium construction pedal by Fanatec.

This version of the review will describe not only the specifications of the pedal, but also a full result after using this for 3-4 weeks daily for about 4 hours per day.

Why I choose this pedal even when I was using the G27 wheel from Logitech will be revealed below.

The dimension of the pedal are as follows ( for you whom is thinking of mounting this on your rig (reverse or F1 style)

Measurements and weights:

  • width: 13.4 inch [340 mm]
  • depth: 12.6 inch [320 mm]
  • height: 7.9 inch [200 mm]
  • weight: ~ 10.8 lbs [~ 4.9 kg]

The Specification

  • Solid aluminum construction
  • Adjustability on the pedal to allow heel&toe technique
  • Height of pedal plates can be adjusted to match foot size (so many holes…so many options)
  • Spring strength can be adjusted on gas and clutch
  • Vibration feedback motor on brake pedal to indicate locking tires. (see that motor behind the brake pedal) –

So what happened is that when I set the ABS on the wheel (see picture below) to say 50, it means after braking treshold reach 50% , the motor of the vibration will start to kick in.
However this will only work if you connect the Pedal directly to the wheel using the PS/2 Interface, not all games will support this vibration .if you connect it directly to PC via USB without Fanatec Wheel, ( so far only rFactor that can activate the motor when plugged in directly using USB to your PC without any fanatec wheel) (I made a mistake of this, must’ve been the late night testing, have just tested this again and the Vibration will NOT work with USB on rFactor apologies for the confusion)

  • Contactless magnetic high-precision sensor on accelerator and clutch with unlimited lifetime ( see the square aluminium attached to the clutch and gas pedal below)
  • it is a contactless potentiometer which measure the travel of the pedal whilst the brake pedal do not use this sensor.
  • The Brake pedal use Pressure sensitive load cell sensor on the brake. It control the brake force with muscle tension instead of movement
  • (see the load cell sticking out from the black aluminium block, next to the rotary dial) that is the Load cell.
  • With this sensor and stiffness of the brake it is very easy to modulate your brake, maintain the brake pressure for progressive braking.
  • Underneath the Pedal there are 2 connections (USB and PS/2) the PS/2 are connection to the Fanatec wheel , and the USB is for direct connection to the PC.

3 weeks of heavy usage:

I found that after 3 weeks of heavy usage now I can’t even brake without the hard pressure behind the brake pedal, I was so used to the muscle memory that when I start to press on the clutch ( mapping it as a brake) felt really “hollow”

I have a bit of problem unfortunately , the load cell started faulting.

The brake is showing that there is load even though I did not press it.

It is during race or time trails that I felt even though I press the gas pedal to the max the car won’t accelerate, and got passed by other opponents.
After 2 days I received the replacement of the brand new load cell, it took 5 minutes to replace it. ( well took me 30 minutes because I took it off the rig and dis-assemble the brake pedal a little and done an adjustment on the pedal positions)

After that everything works as it should be.I’ve been testing the load cell again for 3-4 days now and it hasn’t replicate the old problem .

So Im going to go to the point and straight to the Pros and Cons:

  • I haven’t see any after market pedal that offer load cell braking for under or around $300AU
  • the pedal is very solid, sturdy and strong
  • Adjustability if you want to heel toe or drive F1 where you can space out the brake pedal)
  • adjustable tension , how hard you want to clutch, gas or Brake
  • Load cell braking, instead of how far you press the pedal and stop mid-air , you pressed the brake pedal until it stops and apply pressure from there ( precision braking, it gets so easy in time, just like your hydraulic brake in real car) Easy to modulate braking and hold pressure to progressive brake.
  • looks awesome
  • feels very rigid from the all metal contruction
  • The ability to adjust how much pressure is comfortable for your feet to reach maximum braking point via the rotary dial.
  • the Ability of the brake to vibrate in sync with Steering wheel brake during when ABS point is reached, to let your foot’s muscle know that you are about to lock your tyre. maximum brake all time every time without reaching that locking point and slide.


  • Price – for AU$300 you can get the whole G27 during specials , and you only get the pedal for this price.
  • Load cell may brake ( however load cell replacement is free or if you want to buy spare it’s only $15)
  • The size is bigger than your average pedal (DFGT and G27) , much bigger it may require a converter / not fit your rig

The pedal is worth every penny that you saved in buying them, the built quality and durability certainly helps in displaying that.
Now that everything works after replacing the load cell sensor, I can say that this problem may or may not happen to you, however replacing it and getting the replacement sensor should not be a problem if it does happen.

Personally, I think this is a very high quality pedal, very durable and the Aluminium finish feels very firm under shoes or socks, ( never use this bare foot anymore) you will be pressing these hard during races.

I guess the selling point for me is the load cell braking, this have not made me a lot faster on my race however it has makes me so much consistent in braking and controlling my speed and I believe over time, this translates to better lap times. and I have to agree now that the most important elements in racing is the brake pedal, so many times have I tested this already, I out-brake people or AI without sliding off the grass because of this.

Now to display how the vibration motor works and ABS kicks in after the 50% threshold is reached please enjoy the video below

I hope you gain something from this simple usage review , I am trying to display not only the positives but also the negatives and hopefully will help you in making your decision easier.


Human Racing GT Chassis (Iridium SLS Edition) Review

Human Racing GT Chassis (Iridium SLS Edition) Review

For you that follows the latest broadcast from ISR tonight or into Racing Games, you will know that the Human Racing GT Chassis was recently reviewed.
my point of writing is to hopefully to add to a review from and end user perspective, what I experience and expect from this racing-rig ART.

HumanRacing GT Chassis been around for a while, it’s just I have just noticed them recently, as a matter of fact they are the folks that is responsible for the full F1 cockpit simulators that driven by David Coulthard and or Kimi / Fishichella at racing venues.

Back to the point, I fell in love with these GT Chassis when I first saw a member from GT Planet post his custom white Chassis on the forum.

Some of you may think that you prefer the home made racing rig from wood or metal and think that it is the most flexible rig for you, but you have to be a woodworker, metal bender or have a pretty expensive tool at your disposal to create something as comfortable and as smooth as this rig.

my ‘Autobots’ Chassis

Lets get over some points for this review
1. Adjustability
2. Comfort
3. Stability

If you notice from my previous post of racing rig reviews I have been trying to stay away from the centre post design, no offence to them, but I have been somewhat against those types as no matter how many times I have been confirmed that they have not intrude, they somewhat “still there” mentally and physically. So after testing this rig for the past 3 Weeks (3-4 hours daily minimum dosage),Here is my most honest and humble review of this rig.

1. Adjustability
This has got to be the most adjustable racing rig I have ever come across.
For the Wheel mount not only that they have 2 Tilt Points and 1 Telescopic Point.
You can adjust them until it is in a very very comfortable arm position and angle, and they are so easy to re-adjust.

For the Gear Mount – It has 2 Tilt Points to adjust angle and height. also they are attached the the chair slider so it is the same distance regardless whether you slide the seat forward or backwards.

The GT CHASSIS is manufactured from SPECIALISED POLYMER and features ROBUSTLY BUILT ALUMINIUM MOVING PARTS providing stability as well as retractability – for hard steering, braking and gear changes.

On top of the above this rig comes with a very cool Leather pouch for the adjusting tools consisting of 2 Different sizes (huge) allen keys and a high quality aluminium Hex Wrench. I have re-adjust the gear and wheel mount 3 times since I got it ( including first install position) and these is very very adjustable rig and they are so sturdy ( later points) for Adjustability It’s 10/10

2. Comfort

see: “Pedal’s reflections”, the paint quality are consistent all across the GT Chassis, I wish the photo can do it’s justice.

The Seat, Driving position, pedal position, wheel angle and distance all comes into an important factor when you mention comfort, this again excel in comfort and blew other rig out of the water in terms of Cushion and back support of the Bucket seat, in addition to all the above adjustability making this the most comfortable rig and piece of art I come to love. I spent 6 hours straight racing and watching movies ( i know ) in it and after getting up I did not feel any discomfort in my leg or back, mind you I have had a lumbar operation when I was young so a tiny bit of un-ergonomic position would trigger a slight discomfort, With this rig, even after 6 hours continuous play and seating position, I got up feeling as good as I was..
In addition, to meet the real driving position, The GT Chassis has no central bar between legs which every driver can enjoy the most comfortable driving, or even using the “Heel-Toe”
Need I say more ?
Comfort 10/10

As ISR Stated, Other Rig should look at how stable this rig is, rapid counter-steer, maximum force-feedback using F1 and real-feel mod in rFactor (for those who plays rFactor know how strong the ForceFeedback are in real-feel plugins, they are not called real-feel for nothing, every Shift creates that Positive Jolt on the Steering wheel however the GT Chassis stays solid , the right hand pull during the down slope sharp right turn in “Les Combes” (SPA Belgium) requires a bit of strength to counter pull the f1 to keep in track and this rig very stable.

This whole Chassis, not including the seat and gear mount, is ONE piece so no loose metal or joints in between. Stability it is 10/10

In order for me to explain how beautifull the design, the contour and curves of this piece of art and high class furniture, please see picture below, the real car metallic paint quality, the smooth edges, g27 wheel and pedal felt like it is one with this rig. I just purchase a Clubsport Pedal from Fanatec and HumanRacing are sending me the Converter plate free of charge. it is going to look even more unified now that the clubsport is silver coloured.Looks 10/10 – I wanted to give it a 12/10 (It’s just look THAT good)

5. Price
This is one of those things that you can put as your first and most important points or your last/least.

HumanRacing GT Chassis is priced at around US$1500 ex delivery, however if you think about factor of the design, built quality, comfort, stability, and not to mention looks in your living room, It is a Living Room Trophy.
For That Price I could’ve gone for the F1 Red Bull Playseat or the Vision Racer 3 rig , again the centre post design of those two rigs and the wood and metal plus non adjustability of those two rigs , plus the the great quality of the actual Frame of the GT Chassis makes this rig a clear winner.

I know what I want, it’s just like buying a car, some cars are more luxurious and expensive than others, it depends on what you really want and whether or not all the above is very important to you, to me it is, I have been changing 2 rigs before this and the time and money I spent on to building and assembling them, none comes even close to the comfort and adjustability of HumanRacing GT Chassis. Plus when your in Australia everything is very expensive, for example, Vision racer3 Cost around AU$1200, a regular metal rig cost around $650 not to mention there is no adjustability and look. now comparing the look and comfort and all that factor above side by side (put them side by side in your living room) and If you are in the Market for the highest quality Racing Chassis, I think after careful consideration and comparison you will too ended up getting this beautiful Human Racing GT Chassis

Price it is 9/10

One thing I must say I missed is the Buttkicker mount, however Im sure I can make something similar to the picture here underneath the GT Chassis Seat

This is not my seat and picture. however to explain the concept, this has similar seat rail to the Human Racing GT Chassis and have similar height gap. So It’s very doable.

Extra Points:

My experience dealing with humanRacing Team has been a Very positive ones, I’ve advised them that I purchased a clubsport pedal after the purchase of GTChassis, they air shipped the Converter plate for Clubsport mount at no charge to me. Overall I am really satisfied with their professionalism and customer service. They also air-freighted the brand new chair and plate , I ended up paying a bit for the Qantas Terminal fee.

Quick Pro points in HumanRacing GT Chassis.

– Beautifull
– Strong
– The Most Flexible, adjustable and ergonomic racing rig I have ever seen/ known.
– The highest quality paint ( I was told mine was in Iridium – the SLS AMG color) and the shine /reflection of the paint is fantastic.
– The best after sales service you can find.
– The whole rig just spell out Quality and luxury.
– The most comfortable bucket seat I have ever tried on a racing rig
– This is the most “wife approved” racing rig for your living room ( a living room trophy), I love my wife and having her support and having her wanting to jump in to the GT Chassis and play along makes this worth every penny.

Lastly I would like to Thank Chris Clements from PseudoRacing, Tinnakorn, Thanavud and Phil Williams from HumanRacing for the support and for sending a converter plate and seat at the color and fabric of my choice in such a quality and fast manner.

Enjoy pictures below

(Sep 13/2011) Still waiting for the Clubsport converter plate and New custom seat to arrive.

A preview of what it will look like with the Clubsport

I Will post Video of the new seat and Clubsport Pedal in action once arrived. one thing missing is my Frex Sequential which takes forever to come.

Direct Quote from Human Racing:

Ergonomically built to fit a range of human body types and according to a minimalist design philosophy that at every turn eliminates the unnecessary, the highly refined GT CHASSIS provides the ultimate in simulated driving experiences.

Allowing bespoke adjustments to match your very precise individual demands without sacrificing on strength or stability, this sunning piece of automotive design truly brings man and machine closer together, and with this the race track into your home.

Anything more would hinder the experience.
Anything less would not be racing.

We are human. We are here to race.

Hope you enjoy reading this as much as I do writting it.